POLYNESIA ESSENTIALS
N CHARTS AND NAVIGATION
We quickly learned that detailed sailing books and charts are few and far between here. Downloading cruiser generated guides, known as ‘compendiums’, are near essential to fill the gap. We knew about the coral bommies and the need for careful eyeball navigation, as well as good planning to ensure you have proper light when traversing lagoons. But we didn’t realise how crucial the satellite images, which we have now overlaid on our OPENCPN charts, would be. As well as Navionics on the chart plotter, on our laptop we now have two chart views and three different satellite views to choose from covering the entire Pacific. This is not just Google Earth but also Bing and ARCGIS. It is the combination of different images that offers best coverage: if you only have Google, for example, clouds in one image could cover a bommie, but other images may give a better view. One day as we crossed the atoll of Makemo, two other boats hit a bommie each (neither were using satellite images).
For anchoring, we feel having 100m as a minimum is ideal as if anchoring with 5:1 scope many anchorages demand up to 100m. We float our chain using fenders if there is a risk that we might wrap around a coral bommie.
N CONNECTIVITY
At the post office we purchased local ‘Vini’ SIM cards. An annual data contract gave us over 100gb a month for a fraction of the cost on a pay-asyou-go arrangement. A proof of address was required, and we convinced the town hall to provide one for us. Across much of French Polynesia there is surprisingly good 4G reception with the odd exception. Even in the Tuamotus’ bigger atolls we have found great connectivity. A signal booster helped in more remote locations.
N PROVISIONING
French Polynesia is famously expensive. Alcohol is particularly pricey, costing 2-4 times as much as in the Caribbean. Other goods are also costly due to high import costs. We arrived well stocked but also quickly learned which shops get restocked with what and when. It’s worth getting to know which local farms and gardens are selling – and trading – produce.
In the Marquesas an abundance of fresh fruit is grown locally, however vegetables can sometimes be hard to come by. In the Tuamotus fresh produce is extremely limited: supply ships are scheduled to deliver food once a week in many atolls, but these schedules are often interrupted so forward planning is important (see page 92 for more on provisioning for the tropics).
N PRACTICALITIES
There are haul out facilities in Hiva Oa, Apataki, Tahiti, Raiatea. We hauled in Hiva Oa where they use a hydraulic trailer. It’s a small, friendly, well-run yard with stunning views.
Healthcare is good across French Polynesia and excellent in Tahiti. As an extension of the French healthcare system, doctors and facilities are first class with many specialist services.
With planning, the distances within the country are manageable – weather dependent. From Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas to Raroia in the Tuamotus is 400 miles, Makatea in the Tuamotus to Tahiti is 120 miles, and Tahiti to Moorea only 15 miles. So, it’s possible to be in the remote Tuamotus and yet, in the right conditions, reach the metropolis of Tahiti within a day.
For travelling home or receiving visitors it is a long and expensive journey, although do-able. There are 28 airports across French Polynesia, most of which are for domestic flights, however Tahiti has a busy international airport being serviced by eight international airlines, two of which are low-cost carriers offering flights via Los Angeles direct to Paris.