Playground of the rich
HIGH LIFE: It’s renowned for being one of Europe’s most expensive ski resorts, so is a five-star break in Switzerland worth it? Jamie Grierson takes a trip to Graubunden.
EANING my head out of the train window, I take in the fresh mountain air as we glide along the edge of Lake Zurich. The beautiful reflection of the winter sun bounces off the icy water and is framed exquisitely by the snowtopped mountains in the distance.
I’m travelling by train from Zurich airportp and after a couple of changes, I’m m on the Rhaetian railway to Davos in the largest Swiss canton of Graubunden.
As we snake up the mountain through coniferous trees, climbing ever higher, the snow covering the ground becomes thicker and thicker.
It’s the perfect start to a ski holiday.
In the past, I’ve been crammed into a minibus with nine or 10 companions and thrown back and forth round hairpin bends, while listening to an obnoxious seasonnaire tell me how ‘sick’ the powder has been this year.
I haven’t been skiing in Switzerland before, so I’m keen to see how it compares to France and the USA. With its world famous designer watches, unattainable bank accounts and uberstrong currency, it’s not surprising that Switzerland is much fancier.
From the flat-screen TVs in the bubble lifts, to the succulent Wienerschnitzel in the mountainside restaurants, the quality of the Swiss ski experiencep is much more luxurious. But of course, like all things luxurious, you have to pay. Switzerland is more expensive than France to holiday in, and may even be pricier than the States.
My introduction to the Swiss high life is at the Intercontinental in Davos. The hotel, which opened last December, is shaped like a giant egg and rests on the mountainside above the rather Soviet bloclooking g town of Davos. The town is now s synonymous with the World Economic Forum, which sees global leaders come together and talk about how they can save the world and skiing. It c can be blamed for a number o of photos of UK Chancellor George Osborne in full ski-garb, including a rather trendy neck buff.
The hotel is certainly c comfortable, the restaurant menu is first class and the bar, designed by HR Giger of the Alien movie franchise, is super stylish. But I have to admit that it’s all a bit much f for a man of my tastes.
I feel particularly self-conscious when I slice into my tomato-based meal and squirt scalding hot juice across the table and down the shirt of the far more sophisticated person sat opposite me. For a town that is used to hosting the British Royal family, this must feel like a visit from the Royles.
And I am frequently reminded of the Royal interest in Davos. “Kiss-and-tell
If you have no fear and keep your feet up, you can really pick up speed
doesn’t happen in Davos,” I’m told, moments after being shown the Chesa Grischuna hotel where the Royal family stay.
Much more affordable and down-toearth is the Hotel Wynegg. A modest and fully restored chalet-style building in the heart of Davos Klosters, the hotel