Beauty and history
In the latest in our series on Yorkshire towns, Catherine Scott takes a look at picturesque Knaresborough and discovers some of its secret history. Photographs by Gerard Binks.
Knaresborough is a postcardpretty market town. There’s a warren of medieval streets and stone staircases that weave their way up and down the hill. The town’s castle ruins perch on the cliffs above the River Nidd, with a stunning railway viaduct across the Nidd Gorge where daytrippers are normally able to hire rowing boats. There are the many well-known attractions including what is believed to be the country’s oldest tourist attraction, Mother Shipton’s Cave and Petrifying Well, and the castle sitting above the river and gorge, in a commanding position with spectacular views.
But there is much more to this chocolate box North Yorkshire town than first meets the eye.
Much has been written about its history and legends, including five books by local historian
Paul Chrystal. His most recent book, Secret Knaresborough, reveals little known facts about the town, often regarded as Harrogate’s little sister.
Chrystal, who once ran the Knaresborough Bookshop and has written many books about Yorkshire’s past, admits he is fascinated with the
Chrystal says it then became a refuge for the assassins of the Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Becket, in 1170 when it was owned by Hugh de Morville who was a good friend of King Henry II. “It was claimed that after the murder the owner’s dogs refused to eat the meat that was thrown to them from the table as it was against God – but that could easily be an urban myth.”
In 1210, Knaresborough was chosen by King John as the first place to give alms to the poor on Maundy Thursday.
While Knaresborough, its castle and its incumbents were favoured by the Crown and benefited from the wealth and kudos that brought with it, it eventually led to the castle’s demise. In 1644, Royalists loyal to King Charles I holed up in the castle when Cromwell’s forces advanced on it after the Battle of Marston Moor. “After a siege lasting several weeks, which saw dozens of men killed on each side, the garrison surrendered, after being promised their ‘life and liberty’,” says Chrystal.
It was largely destroyed in 1648 not as the result of the fighting, but because of an order from Parliament to dismantle all Royalist castles. Indeed, many town centre buildings are built of ‘castle stone’.
Visitors to Knaresborough can hardly fail to see
Lancashire and Derbyshire – including a bridge over the Starbeck on the road from Knaresborough to Harrogate. Today, a bronze statue of Jack, created by Barbara Asquith, sits on a seat in Knaresborough’s marketplace. “I think if he had done what he did for Yorkshire down south, he would be a national hero,” claims Chrystal.
The River Nidd runs through Knaresborough.
Its name comes from a Celtic word meaning ‘bright’ or ‘shining. “It has always been essential to Knaresborough’s economy, as a means of transport, a source of fish, and a provider of power for water mills.”
In 1818, it supplied power for 48 mills in total – seven lead mills, one cotton mill, 18 flax mills and 22 corn mills. It has also provided a source of water and – until Victorian times – was used to dump sewage.
The current viaduct, which connects Knaresborough with Harrogate, was opened in 1851, but it is in fact the second viaduct. The first was supposed to have opened in 1848, but the first construction collapsed into the river very near to completion. The resultant noise of the falling masonry was said to have lasted for five minutes. Whilst there was no official inquiry, it is believed that the collapse of the viaduct was down to a combination of bad workmanship, poor materials and excess water in the swollen river below as a result of heavy rain over a period of two months.
But it is not just its history that makes Knaresborough an attraction. Wander through the streets and you may well end up doing a double take as you see everything from a giraffe to Guy Fawkes, who grew up outside Knaresborough in the village of Scotton. The Trompe L’Oeil paintings are in fact public works of art illustrating characters and scenes from the town’s history in the blank windows which are a feature of the Georgian buildings around Knaresborough.
The largest event is the annual Great Knaresborough Bed Race which was started in 1966 by the local Lions. A number of teams push their elaborately decorated beds along a demanding course around the town, including a challenging river crossing and the long climb up for a lap of the marketplace.
Sadly, this year’s event has been cancelled due to the coronavirus pandemic, but it is sure to return as it’s woven into the town’s fabric and part of Knaresborough’s enduring allure.