Pub of the week

THE HINCHLIFFE ARMS

Oh, what a chequered history this pub has had. It’s always been a mystery to me that it hasn’t won a string of gongs. It’s a beautiful old building in a stunning location – tucked away, granted, but then many of the best places are. At one time it had a misanthropic landlord, then the Laprell family took it over and for a while made it the place to be on a Sunday lunchtime.

After they moved on, Mancunian chef Rob Owen Brown had a go, with his signature crispy squirrel and Vimto trifle. Can’t imagine why it didn’t work out for him.

Today, Lancashire brewery JW Lees has got the lease, and the young couple who have taken the reins are cheerful and welcoming. There are plenty of folk on a weekend lunchtime and plates brimming with roast dinners are coming out of the kitchen.

The menu looks good enough – standard pub grub (garlic mushrooms, fish and chips, steak and ale pie plus the inevitable Hinchliffe Burger and onion rings) and there’s a menu for the kiddies plus a steak and red onion melt.

Beer-wise the choice is pretty good if a bit limited: it’s JW Lees of course. There’s a Hinchliffe Pale Ale and Boilerhouse Craft Ale – plus Manchester Craft Lager. The wine selection is decent, too. They’re planning to feature guest ales “once we’ve taken the temperature of the local trade,” which augurs well.

On a good day, sit outside this elegant building set in a deep wooded valley – it’s a sun trap – and chat to horse riders and walkers coming past. I’m very glad the place is still a pub.

■ The Hinchliffe Arms, Church

Lane, Cragg Vale, HX7 5TA 01422 883256. Open seven days a week, midday till 11pm.