Just tasted

Apostoles 30-year-old Rare Sherry, Gonzalez Byass, Majestic, £24.99 or £22.49 for 37.5cl as part of a mix six. So much more than just a sherry, this starts life as a dry, zesty fino and then ages in wooden casks in a vast airy bodega where it naturally concentrates and develops for over 30 years. The result is a smooth, figs and walnuts, butterscotch and raisins kind of wine. Tonsil-warming without stickiness, it has freshness, bags of character and, in my opinion, the ability to cure all winter ailments.