THE RIVERSIDE KELHAM, SHEFFIELD

You may well be running a pub in the most picturesque corner of Yorkshire, but in these uncertain times that just isn’t enough. You have to possess a flair for innovation, ingenuity and imagination. A prime example of this is located in the historic Kelham district of Sheffield, an area justly celebrated for its list of fine hostelries.

The Riverside Kelham has four very distinct spaces apart from the main (and capacious) bar. There’s a terrace overlooking the River Don’s dark waters; an all-weather courtyard with heaters and a retractable roof; a happy little snug with a fire; and a proper upstairs function room.

There are no less than seven drinks packages, starting with the good old-fashioned pre-paid bar tab. But here you still find a loyalty to the regulars – a whole wall in the snug is devoted to a shelf full of books donated by drinkers over the years.

The artwork on the walls is strangely surreal in tone – an old accordion hangs from the bricks next to the chimney breast, for example. And the quirkiness doesn’t end there. On the cocktails menu, you’ll find a Sheffield Negroni

– a potent blend of the city’s own dry gin, plus “Carpano Antica Formula, Campari and orange bitters”.

More traditionally there are some beautifully kept real ales – the Saltaire Brewery is well represented, and Camra members get 20 per cent off their pint.

You won’t be going hungry,either, for the menu runs the gamut of mains with a distinct leaning to Bavarian cuisine and burgers, and no less than five vegan options. And who could refuse chips with cheese sauce and gravy?

■ The Riverside Kelham, 1, Mowbray Street, Neepsend, Sheffield S3

8EN. Tel: 0114 2724640; www. riversidesheffield.co.uk