WOLDS INN, HUGGATE

There are so many reasons to recommend the Wolds Inn that I’m able to categorise them.

Geographical: It’s in Huggate, bang in the middle of the Wolds. However you get there, the last 20 miles or so of your journey is guaranteed to be through entirely beautiful scenery.

Historical: While the pub has been serving the village and visitors since the 18th century, it’s perhaps known for the relatively-recent distinction of being the first pub in which David Hockney ever got drunk. As a lad, he used to stook corn in the fields around Huggate and one night after work, his fellow stookers took him to the pub and introduced him to the wonderful world of hangovers.

Societal: Some claim the management and staff of the pub can appear a little brusque, offhand even. Personally, I like their stoic dedication to communicating as efficiently and briefly as possible.

But the reason I return repeatedly and oft to the Wolds Inn is gastronomic. They serve the very best hot beef and onion sandwich in the county, if not the world. Two slices of perfectly ordinary brown bread surround layers of perfectly cooked fall-aparty beef. All is topped with soft fried onion and served in a pool of delicious gravy. Absolute perfection.

There is obviously a full menu of other food available – and the Sunday lunches are held in high regard by all – but if you’re heading Huggate way, I heartily insist you’ll only need the sandwich menu to ensure complete satisfaction.

■ The Wolds Inn, Driffield Road, Huggate, East Yorks, YO42 1YH 01377 288217 www.woldsinn.co.uk