Thanks, Fritz
Zweigelt is underappreciated, perhaps because of its name, but Austrians love its soft tannins and good fruit.
There are some grape varieties that are easier than others. Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Cabernet and Shiraz are all easy to say and to drink. Even Viognier has become established, after a little hesitancy about the pronunciation, and Albariño has happily slotted into summer drinking. However, there are others that seem to be hampered by their names.
Take Zweigelt as an example. I am sure that Dr Fritz Zweigelt was inordinately proud of the work he did at Austria’s viticulture research station in creating this variety, by crossing two existing grapes, but maybe he should have consulted a marketing person before naming the grape after himself.
Crossing varieties of fruit is nothing new – that’s how new types of apples are produced. That favourite of children’s lunch boxes, the Pink Lady apple wouldn’t exist if it hadn’t been created by an Australian grower crossing Golden Delicious with another cultivar, Lady Williams.
So, in 1922, Fritz took the dark, fruity, structured Blauerfränkish that was widely planted and crossed it with a light, velvety, cherry-fruited Saint Laurent and produced an offspring that all parents dream of. It has all the best characteristics of both parents, and none of their bad points. It ripens well, has soft tannins, good fruit and produces a regular crop. That is why Zweigelt now accounts for almost half of Austria’s red wines. The bunches are fairly big which means that it can produce a wine that is light and juicy, almost Beaujolais in style, but when grown on different soils, or cultivated to have a smaller crop it becomes deeper, more intense in flavour, with dark cherry fruit, and a hint of peppery spice. So, Fritz Zweigelt didn’t just create a new grape, he provided a wine that can go from a summer quaffing style, probably served lightly chilled, to an intensely flavoured wine that will happily accompany a plate of barbecued meat.
Zweigelt is hugely underappreciated and that could be simply down to its name. Pronunciation isn’t that difficult – try “svie” to rhyme with spy, and add “gelt” on the end, but if all else fails, try calling it Fritz. I am sure the good doctor wouldn’t mind.
I tasted through a wide range of Zweigelts many of which were sent over from Austria in tiny bottles, preserved under argon gas. Here is my choice of the best...
Von der land Zweigelt 2020, Majestic, £8.99 on a mix-six deal: Lively cherry and raspberry fruit in this wine with soft tannins and a style that needs just a short while in the fridge to
bring out its vibrant style. Enjoy on its own or with savoury nibbles.
Taste the Difference Zweigelt 2020, Sainsbury’s, £9: This is a light, juicy, Morello cherry-filled style of Zweigelt with a hint of mint mid-palate and a clean, crisp finish. It is a perfect summer wine, especially if it spends an hour in the fridge before serving alongside a grilled rack of lamb.
Funkstille Zweigelt 2020, Niederosterreich, Latitude Wines, Leeds, £11.50: Packed with bright cherry and plum fruit, this 100 per cent Zweigelt wine has been aged in old, large barrels for a short period to round out the flavours. The result is an edge of rounded creaminess filling out the flavours with a hint of spice on the finish.
Sepp Moser Classic Style Organic Zweigelt 2019, Cellar Selected (01422 416200), £11.70: Grapes for this wine come from the Sepp Moser estate near Neusiedlersee where the summers are warm and dry. Sustainability is very important at this producer and this wine is produced organically. Riper and deeper than many Zweigelt wines, it has blackberry fruit with raspberry and redcurrant notes and a twist of white pepper. This wine is also available at the Ake & Humphris stores in Harrogate and Collingham.
Zweigelt, Johanneshof Reinisch, 2018, Thermenregion, Field & Fawcett,
£13.85: From a region just south of Vienna, this 40-hectare property is run by three brothers who are the fourth generation to take the reins at the vineyards and winery. Their emphasis is definitely on red wines, although they do produce some lovely whites. This Zweigelt is organically grown and has been made in a way that brings out the deep plum fruit as well as ripe red cherry notes. Aged in oak for 12 months, it has an edge of spice, adding complexity.
The Dot Cherry Zweigelt 2020, Pfaffl, Niederösterreich, Martinez Wines, £13.99: Three-times winners of the award for the best Austrian wine producer, the brother and sister team of Roman Pfaffl and his sister Heidi Fischer produce wines that tell you what they taste like. There is even a picture of a cherry on the label, so it is not surprising that it tastes of bright, fresh, juicy cherries, with crunchy lively style. Pour alongside roast pork or sausages. Also available at Starmore Boss, Sheffield.
Domaine Wachau Blauer Zweigelt 2019 Terrassen, York Wines, £15.15: From one of the most spectacular wine sites in Austria, this comes from a patchwork of tiny vineyards on steep terraces along the Danube river in the Wachau area. Poised and elegant, it has red berry fruit, an edge of spice and liquorice and a smooth, soft finish. Perfect with duck.
Umathum Zweigelt 2019, Burgenland, the Wine Society £16.50: This estate works organically and is located close the huge Lake Neusiedl which moderates summer and winter temperatures. The focus here is red wines, and this is an outstanding wine, full of succulent, dark cherry fruit with enough structure to accompany lamb and chicken. You need to be a member of the Wine Society to buy, which costs £40 but it lasts a lifetime and will probably be the best £40 you ever spend on wine.
Rabi “Titan” Zweigelt 2018, Langenlois, Waitrose Cellar, £17.99: A chunky style of Zweigelt with smoky coffee notes combining with ripe cherry fruit that leads into a rounded, mouth-filling style, with soft, elegant tannins. This can be poured alongside roast duck, or even a spiced leg of lamb.
Weinhof Waldschütz Blauer Zweigelt 2019, Fels am Wagram 2019, Alpine Wines, £20.42: A Zweigelt with deeper flavours than most, with plum, cherry and redcurrant fruit, backed by a distinct crunchy style and topped with just a hint of cinnamon spice.