Magical history tour
San Gimignano wine has a tradition going back centuries – and has been praised by rulers, popes and poets.
There is no mistaking San Gimignano. Halfway between Florence and Siena, to the west of the Chianti Classico region the distinctive profile of this small medieval hilltop town, stands out against the sky. San Gimignano is the town of towers. They stand, square, tall and almost threatening, as they rise above the terracotta tiled houses. Centuries ago, they were a sign of the power of two families who competed to build taller and taller towers.
Eventually those two families stopped being rivals and the tower building ceased, but 13 of the original 72 towers remain, a symbol of the turbulent history of this beautiful place. Now the whole walled town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, fascinating to visit, full of churches, frescos, architecture, ice cream and wine. Ice cream? If you visit San Gimignano then you have to try the ice cream. Situated in the main piazza, Gelateria Dondoli has won many awards and claims to be the best in the world. On a sunny day, it is definitely well worth a taste.
Much more important is the local wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano and it is worth pointing out that there are several types of Vernaccia grapes grown in various parts of Italy and none of them are related. The word Vernaccia is probably derived from an old Roman word meaning ‘native or indigenous’, so Vernaccia di San Gimignano is exactly that, the local grape of San Gimignano. Although some red wines are made here, it is the white wine of Vernaccia di San Gimignano that makes this area distinctively different and that is because the soil is sandstone-based with calcium-rich shells and fossils. The wine was awarded DOCG status back in 1993 and is the only white Tuscan wine to have been recognised for its superior quality.
The vineyards spread out across the surrounding rolling hills, a defined area making a fresh- tasting, dry wine with varying degrees of floral notes, crisp green apple flavours, citrus, herbs with a crunchy, stony element and just a hint of almonds. This is a wine that will happily settle around an
Italian lunch, or even just a few nibbles and harmonise perfectly with the food. It has character, without dominating.
Its history goes back centuries. Rulers, Popes and even poets have praised the wine of San Gimignano, but like all wine regions, the wines have not stood still over all that time. Vernaccia di San Gimignano has moved forward in terms of production and quality. Now sustainability is the watchword of the region, as growers take care of
the environment and the quality of their grapes.
This is a tiny wine region of just 500 hectares, with limited production. You may have to search for these wines in your local supermarket or merchant, and once you have acquired a taste for its precise, elegant flavours, it is well worth visiting this picturesque region. Stay, if you can, in the town, although accommodation is limited. As befits a world heritage site, you cannot drive into the centre, so be prepared to park outside the walls and drag your suitcase through the stonepaved streets. Early morning and evening are the best times to wander the town, when all the day-trippers have gone and it feels like you are stepping back in history. Alternatively, many wine estates just a few kilometres from the town have rooms and restaurants, so you are well-placed to explore the region.
I tasted through all 76 Vernaccia di San Gimignano wines that were presented at the Anteprima tastings in San Gimignano last month. Most were 2021, to show the quality of the new vintage wines, but some were from previous vintages, back to 2017. It was fascinating to taste the older wines
since they clearly demonstrated that this is a wine that fills out and develops complexity and texture with a little time in bottle. Vernaccia di San Gimignano is not a wine where you have to rattle the bottles on the shelf to find the youngest vintage.
Here are some of the best from the tasting:
Teruzzi and Puthod Rondolino Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2020, Waitrose £9.79 down to £7.79 until
May 17: With aromas of tree blossom and honeysuckle underpinned by a firm thread of citrus this is delicious on its own, or with fish. Snap this up while it is on offer and enjoy throughout the summer. Despite the slightly different name, Teruzzi and Puthod is the same company as Teruzzi.
Taste the Difference Vernaccia di
San Gimignano 2020, Sainsbury £8:
The label on the bottle clearly shows the iconic towers of San Gimignano. The wine is crisp and bright with stone fruit and ripe pear notes, backed by clear fresh citrus and a precise, elegant finish. This is a great value wine, and it is good to see a supermarket include such a specialist wine for its own label selection.
Teruzzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2020, Majestic £11.99 down to £9.99 on a mix six deal: Teruzzi is the name of the founder of this estate, although it has now passed to the Moretti family who have converted to organic viticulture across their 60 hectares of Vernaccia grapes. These are divided between different locations, making the most of soil variations to create wines with layers of flavour. This has hints of apricot and ginger among the crisp apple fruit, with a definite creamy texture which goes perfectly with grilled fish.
Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2020, Field and Fawcett £15.90: Organic vineyards and close attention to low yields gives a wine with spring flowers on the nose, crisp apple and ripe pear with a hint of ripe peach in the mix. Dry and crunchy with a long, gentle finish. Chill this down and enjoy with a herby chicken salad.
Sono Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2019, Latitude Wines £20.99: Organic grapes, fermented with some skin contact to enrich the flavours and add texture, this has honeysuckle and apricot notes with a light dusting of white pepper and a crunchy minerality. Buon Vino at The Courtyard Dairy in Austwick also has this wine at £21.