Far better outlook
This year’s wine crop in New Zealand is looking good after growers were forced to drown their sorrows in 2021.
Things are looking up for New Zealand. The 2022 crop has been harvested and is still fermenting and ageing in tanks and barrels, but, according to Chris Stroud, from New Zealand Winegrowers in London, the crop is “looking good”. This is good news for everyone because, although the 2021 vintage was great quality, it was short on quantity. First there were frosts that nipped at the emerging buds on the vines, and then flowering was disrupted by poor weather. The result was a 20 per cent shortfall in crop, and many of the world’s favourite Sauvignon Blanc brands cut back on deliveries to UK retailers. Certainly, deals were hard to find, and prices generally firmed up.
Whilst actual figures for the 2022 harvest won’t be available for a few more weeks, apparently the growers are looking a lot happier than they were last year. This is not only good for them, but also for all UK drinkers who enjoy the taste of New Zealand’s biggest wine export, Sauvignon Blanc.
New Zealand is unusual in that 88 per cent of all wine made there is exported.
The local population drinks what it can but, with a thirsty world that appreciates the fresh zesty flavours of New Zealand’s wines, they have had to switch to beer as local wine sales have been sacrificed to fulfil export orders.
And while Sauvignon Blanc vines make up the vast majority of New Zealand’s vineyards, there is a distinct push towards exploring other varieties that can do well in the crisp, clear climate of the land of the long white cloud.
Chardonnay does well in New Zealand, bringing delicate flavours that don’t need large quantities of oak to balance it, while Pinot Gris, Albariño and Viognier are starting to show just how good they can be. Among the reds, Pinot Noir is definitely leading the pack, and some of the best wines compete in quality and on price with the best of Burgundy. Cabernets, Merlots and Syrahs are now making good progress in New Zealand.
Rosé is the fashionable new colour from New Zealand. A splash of Pinot Noir, Merlot or even Pinotage brings a whole new range of flavours to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot
Gris wines, adding red fruit tones to the clear, crunchy refreshing flavours of Kiwi whites. Some of these use the word “blush” on the label, which could be confusing if you are used to “blush” on the semi-sweet wines of California. All the New Zealand blush wines I have come across taste dry and are perfect for summertime drinking. At the annual New Zealand tasting in London, I was surprised to see just how many varieties were being poured. Leaving Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir aside for now, here are some of the best wines I tasted.
Blush/rosé
Babich Rosé 2020, Hawkes Bay, Co-op, £9: Sauvignon Blanc-based, with a whole mix of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage grapes, gives this wine a terrific depth of flavour, with shades of bramble and redcurrant fruits.
Villa Maria Sauvignon Blush 2021, Marlborough, Tesco, £10, down to £8 until Monday (Clubcard holders only): A splash of Merlot in this Sauvignon Blanc wine adds a fresh touch of juicy red fruits. Serve chilled alongside a plate of prawns.
Leftfield Rosé 2020, Hawkes Bay,
New Zealand, Waitrose, £10.99: An unusual blend of Arneis, Pinotage and Merlot combines to give a rosé packed with crunchy raspberry and cranberry fruit. Deeper in colour than is strictly fashionable, this has the power to accompany roast chicken or a lightly spiced tuna steak.
White wines
Esk Valley Chardonnay 2020, Hawkes Bay, Cellar Selected (01422 416200), down from £12.95 to £10.95 while stocks last: The New Zealand climate brings out the best in this grape, adding fruit intensity without losing the thread of freshness that makes it so food friendly. Esk Valley is a boutique winery, with a clear focus on quality. The wine has peach and citrus notes with a rounded, mouth-filling texture.
Seifried Pinot Gris 2020, Nelson, Roberts & Speight, £13.99: From the warm, sheltered area of Nelson on New Zealand’s South Island, this Pinot Gris is ripened to perfection, giving a wine full of ripe pear and red apple fruit, with a hint of ginger spice. It is slightly off dry and goes perfectly with spicy dishes.
Saint Clair Gimblett Gravels Reserve Viognier, Hawkes Bay, Waitrose, £14.99: The characteristic apricot tones of Viognier are in evidence with a layer of nectarine and orange zest, leading to a cinnamon-spiced palate and a rounded finish. Team this with a creamy risotto. Babich Organic Albariño 2021, Wairau Valley, Majestic, £15.99, down to £13.99 on a mix-six deal: It is only a few years since Albariño from Galicia started to make an impression on the UK market. Now New Zealand has planted some vines and discovered that it does well in its cool, coastal climate. This version is from one of New Zealand’s oldest family producers and it provides a fine expression of the grape, with lime and orange zest aromas, ripe pear and peach flavours backed by a crisp, citrus finish. Delicious with grilled sea bass.
Red wines
Vidal Syrah Reserve 2017, Hawkes Bay, Field & Fawcett, £13.95: This sunshineloving grape has found a home in Hawkes Bay, on the dry, eastern side of North Island, where the warm climate and an old gravel riverbed provides the ideal place to ripen the grapes. Full of dark, plum fruit, with a sprinkle of pepper and a soft, supple finish.
Mission Estates Merlot 2020, Hawkes Bay, Le Bon Vin (Sheffield), £15.50:
The Mission was founded by French missionaries who arrived in 1851, planted grapes and so created New Zealand’s first winery. The missionaries are long gone, and even the Mission house had to be cut into chunks and moved up the hill to avoid the threat of flooding, but the vineyards remain, now expanded and improved and still producing excellent grapes. This Merlot has soft, plush cherry and plum fruit with a dusting of herbs and a long finish.
Villa Maria Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Reserve 2018, Hawkes Bay, Ocado, £23:
Consistently delicious with ripe cassis and damson fruit, threaded with cedar notes and fine tannins. Team this with roast lamb or beef.