When crunch comes
Value for money is to the fore in Tesco’s summer wine range, which features flavours that go perfectly with salad and green vegetables, writes Christine Austin.
THERE was a fine range of wines on show at Tesco’s spring tasting when journalists arrived at the fifth floor of an old factory in a less-than-pretty part of London to sample new lines and new vintages. Some 156 wines later, I had a good idea of where Tesco is going with its summer range, and it is quite impressive.
There is a distinct focus on value for money, which doesn’t mean cheap wines. It means getting good flavours into the bottle at fair prices. And Tesco runs a regular series of offers with £2 or more knocked off the price for a limited period of time. To access these offers, you need to have a Clubcard, which definitely saves money on the weekly shop.
With a fairly steady team of buyers who have survived lockdown and working from home, and with 4,000 stores to supply, Tesco has the muscle to drive competitive pricing, and it needs to, especially with discounters Aldi and
Lidl snapping at its heels for market share. “This year we have been looking for gems that give great value for money,” said Charlotte Lemoine, one of the wine buying team at Tesco. “Because of the summer season, we are all eating more salads and vegetables, so we have been looking for crunchy flavours in wines.”
If you have a Tesco store nearby and you have signed up for a Clubcard, then there are some great flavours at good value prices. Here are some of the best.
SPARKLING WINES
■ Barigny Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
France, £4.99: A great value fizz that has rounded fruit characters from its Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes and is as dry as the upmarket sparkling wines that cost a lot more money. Perfect for Monday to Thursday drinking.
■ Codorníu Vintage Cava Brut 2021, Spain, £11.49: Traditionally made, with a long period of ageing on its lees, this is a stylish cava, with clean, fresh, citrus fruit, and a savoury, toasty finish.
■ Gratien and Meyer Crémant de Loire Brut NV, France, £12: Sparkling wines from the Loire have really upped their game in recent years. Made from Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc grapes, this has class and elegance with creamy bubbles, apple and citrus fruit and a hint of toast on the finish.
■ Tesco Finest English Sparkling Rosé NV, £21: No garden party is complete without an English wine, and this gathers up the scents of an English garden, with rose petals, strawberry fruit and herbaceous notes. It comes from one of the UK’s best producers, Balfour.
WHITE WINES
■ Vista Castelli Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2022, Italy, £4.25: Can anything at this price be any good? Yes. It is bright, lively with citrus and herbs. Perfect for a summer gathering in the garden.
■ Tesco Finest Western Cape Sauvignon Blanc 2022, South Africa, £8: This scored one of my top marks for sheer vivacity and clear citrus and herb-sprinkled flavours. Thirst-quenching and food-friendly, it will keep taste buds tuned all summer.
■ El Jardin de Ana Godello 2021, Monterrei, Spain, £10: Godello is one of those grapes that almost went extinct but is now being replanted and this is a terrific example. It has
white peach and herbal notes, with a crunchy, minerally background.
■ D’Arenberg “The Witches Berry” Organic Chardonnay 2022, McLaren Vale, Australia, £12: There is no point asking winemaker Chester Osborn why he calls his wines such wacky names, he just dreams them up. This has peach, pineapple and Granny Smith fruit notes with just a hint of savoury oak floating by on the long, elegant finish.
SUMMER ROSÉS
■ Villa Maria Blush Sauvignon 2022, New Zealand, £10: All the usual fresh, zesty, herby flavours of Kiwi Sauvignon blanc, with a splash of merlot adding rounded, red berry notes.
■ Gérard Bertrand Côtes des Roses Rosé 2022, France, £11: One of the most stylish bottles you can put on your table, it has a rose imprinted in the glass. The flavours are good too with ripe strawberry fruit, fresh lime notes and a dry finish. Team with salads and grilled fish.
■ Arbousset Tavel Rosé 2021, Southern Rhône, France, £12: Last year’s parcel of this cracking wine sold out quickly, so snap it up when you see it. It is more like a light red than a rosé, packed with raspberry fruit, with a clear citrus backbone.
■ Tesco Finest Sancerre Rosé 2022,
France, £13: Made from 100 per cent Pinot Noir grown in the cool Sancerre region, this has rounded, gentle strawberry fruit, backed by the characteristic freshness of the region. Worthy of some serious seafood.
RED WINES
■ Vista Castelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2021, Italy, £4.75: There is a surprising amount of cherry and plum fruit in this wine, along with supple tannins and enough structure to cope with sausages from the barbecue.
■ Porcupine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, South Africa, £7.50: No apologies for talking about one of the terrific Porcupine Ridge wines again. This has clear cassis and bramble fruit, supported by supple tannins. Good enough for dining room drinking.
■ Tesco Finest Viña del Cura Rioja Reserva 2018, Spain, £9: This own-label wine has been in the Tesco range for years, but it still stands comparison with some of the more expensive brands. It comes from one of the best producers in Rioja and has spent 18 months in barrel, developing its character and a seam of quality oak. A serious, well-made wine.
■ Tesco Finest Châteauneuf-du-Pape NV, France, £20: Mainly the 2021 wine, with a substantial splash of the excellent 2020 vintage in the mix. Blended by the Tesco buyer to add depth and weight to the 2021, it is a terrific wine, with deep, dark plum fruit, an edge of spice and lovely complexity. Buy enough to take you through to Christmas.