Bosky bouquets
Christine Austin looks forward to uncorking the fragrant autumn aromas of Pinot Noir as the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness finally takes hold.
IHATE to mention climate change but the weather has been a bit odd this year. We seem to get summer in small doses, while there is always the threat of rain, and even hail, when we least expect it. But perhaps now is the genuine start of autumn. There may be a few more warm days but essentially the nights start to close in from this point and I find my hand moving to the Pinot section of the wine rack.
I have enjoyed summer whites and rosés on my travels and at home, and will continue to delve into Chardonnays, Albariños and Rieslings as the food on my plate demands but there is something about the bosky, fragrant aromas of a good Pinot Noir that suits autumn.
As the sun goes down and the aroma of dinner is in the air, this seemingly delicate grape has enough power and finesse to settle itself around a wide variety of foods, and complement them, without dominating proceedings.
Light enough to enjoy with fish, especially when there are mushrooms, a sauce or even some roasted vegetables on the plate, it is big enough to match with pheasant and duck, and it can easily take a thyme-stuffed roast chicken in its stride. And while delicate Burgundies and Martinborough Pinots may struggle against a steak, there are bigger more powerful Pinots from Otago that can manage to accompany beef, and still be happy in the glass when the cheese comes around.
The great thing about Pinot is that if the day is warm, you can give the bottle just half an hour in the fridge to add freshness to the flavours, but on a cooler evening, pouring the wine at room temperature produces more depth and complexity.
Like all grape varieties, the style of wine changes, depending on where it is grown and how those grapes are made into wine. There has been an explosion of Pinot Noir plantings around the world and even with the rise in duty rates there are some tremendous bargains out there.
If you are planning your weekend menus, here are a few suggestions.
■ Lateral Pinot Noir NV, Central Valley, Chile, Tesco, £4.39: With duty costing over half the retail price, plus VAT and various margins for producers and retailers, I have no idea how Tesco manages to get this wine on the shelves at such a low price. It is a simple, fruit-driven, rounded Pinot, true to type and perfectly good enough for Monday to Thursday drinking.
■ Cono Sur Bicicleta Pinot Noir, Chile, Booths, down from £8.50 to £6.75 until October 24: This is my all-time favourite bargain entry-level Pinot, and the offer price makes it a must-stock item. It provides lightweight, strawberry, cherry and plum fruit with just a hint of spice on the finish and is equally happy when served slightly chilled with fish or at room temperature with chicken, roasted fish or light pasta dishes. However, I have recently been impressed by the higher-intensity, well-flavoured Organic Cono Sur Pinot Noir, currently on offer at Sainsbury’s, down from £8.25 to £8 until October 17. Sustainability is a way of life at this Chilean estate. That’s why there are bicycles on the labels, which is how the workers get around the vineyards.
■ Albert Road Pinot Noir by Savage and Louw 2021, Western Cape, South Africa, Waitrose, down from £9.49 to £6.99 on a 25 per cent mixed-six deal until Tues
day: Get your skates on, or even easier, order online at Waitrose Cellar by Tuesday to stock up with Waitrose wines at 25 per cent off. You have to buy a six pack of wine which can be mixed, and the deal applies only to wines over £5. Albert Road is a terrific wine made by two outstanding winemakers. It has soft juicy, red berry fruit and a touch of herbs and it is definitely worth its full price.
■ Zana Pinot Noir 2021, Romania, Sainsbury’s, down from £8.25 to £7 until October 17: A full-flavoured Pinot with black cherry, raspberry and cinnamon spice that comes from the best winery in Romania. Run by a Brit, originally from Bristol with an Australian in charge of winemaking, this is the company that has put top quality Romanian wines on our shelves.
■ The Best Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022, Aconcagua Costa, Chile, Morrisons, £11.50: One of the best supermarket Pinots on the shelves, from the cool coastal vineyards of Aconcagua. A deep-flavoured style with bramble and cherry fruit, a touch of spice and a structure that is big enough to partner game or even a chicken casserole.
■ Villa Wolf Pinot Noir 2020, Pfalz, Germany, York Wines, £11.99: A light, bright style of Pinot Noir from the rolling hills of the Pfalz region in Germany, where summer temperatures are warm enough to ripen it fully. This has rounded black cherry-fruit with an edge of spice and complexity from 12 months ageing in French oak. Great value and a fresh style.
■ Creation Pinot Noir 2022, Cape Coast, South Africa, Marks & Spencer, £15: Iam delighted that Creation wines are now available from a mainstream retailer. I have loved these wines for years. The property is fabulous, the wine is excellent and so is the food in the on-site restaurant. The winemaker is JeanClaude Martin, from Switzerland, married to Carolyn from South Africa and the wine reflects the blending of their two cultures. Bright, positive fruit with complexity and elegance – a perfect food wine.
■ Louis Latour Les Terrasses Pinot Noir 2019, France, Ocado, £17.50: Not Burgundy, although it comes from one of the famous Burgundy producers, but there is definitely a Burgundian style to the wine. Gentle red cherry and ripe strawberry fruit, and earthy, herbal notes.
■ Ghost Corner Pinot Noir 2020, Elim, South Africa, Waitrose Cellar, down from £19.99 by 25 per cent until Tuesday: A topnotch wine from the southernmost tip of South Africa where the winds keep yields low and flavours fresh. Tasted last week in SA and the 2022 vintage was sensational with a long, lifted pure fruit style, with cherry and raspberry notes, elegant and long. The 2020 should be even better. Only available online.