Simple pleasures
Irish chef Donal Skehan was influenced by generations of adventurous eaters, inheriting a family love of food, and is now passing it on to his sons. Here are three of his favourite recipes.
Autumn pasta with blue cheese and nuts
“I love the sticky sound this steamy pasta makes as you stir through pumpkin, walnuts and blue cheese until it forms a creamy sauce,” says chef Donal Skehan.
“It’s proper autumnal food – seek out smaller, sweeter pumpkins with interesting textures and skin colours; they are far more flavourful than the regular large orange ones.”
Serves 4. Ingredients: 1 pumpkin or autumn squash (about 1kg), peeled, deseeded and sliced; 3-4 sprigs of thyme;
1tbsp olive oil; 1tbsp salted butter; 2 onions, thinly sliced; 350g pasta shapes, such as conchiglie or rigatoni; 100g blue cheese; 75g walnuts, toasted and roughly crushed; Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper; Best-quality extra virgin olive oil, to serve
Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/400F/Gas 6.
Place the pumpkin on a large baking sheet with the thyme sprigs and toss in the olive oil until all the pieces are coated. Season generously with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 40 minutes, or until tender and caramelised at the edges. Once cooked, keep warm.
While the pumpkin cooks, place a large heavy-based frying pan (skillet) over a medium-high heat and add the butter. Add the onions and season generously, tossing to coat completely in the melted butter. Reduce the heat and cook gently until the onions are sweet and caramelised, about 10-15 minutes.
Towards the end of the pumpkin cooking time, bring a large pan of water to the boil and generously season with salt. Once boiling, add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain and reserve a cup of the starchy cooking water for use in the sauce.
Increase the heat back up under the pan with the onions, then add the reserved pasta water and bring to a steady simmer. Meanwhile, mash half the cooked pumpkin and add this to the onions. Crumble in almost all of the blue cheese (keep a little back to serve) and stir until you have a smooth, creamy sauce. Working quickly, add the pasta to the pan and stir through until completely coated.
Serve the pasta hot in warmed plates topped with the remaining pumpkin slices and blue cheese. Sprinkle with toasted crushed walnuts and top with a generous drizzle of the bestquality extra virgin olive oil you have to hand and a last seasoning of sea salt and black pepper.
One-pot Moroccan-style meatballs
“There are some recipes that are ideal for making ahead of time and seem to improve in flavour once you plonk them in the fridge for an overnight stay. This is particularly true of a tomato-based meatball stew like this one,” says Donal. “The spices have an opportunity to mingle with the lamb, the harissa paste has time
to develop the deep hum of heat in the sauce, and you are left with a pot of something truly special. Make these meatballs while you have time on a Sunday night, and all you have to do to make a meal of them is serve them at the table with rice or couscous, and maybe some flatbreads.”
If you don’t have a slow cooker, make this in a casserole dish and cook, uncovered, in an oven preheated to 160C/140C fan/320F/Gas 3 for one hour.
Serves 4. Ingredients: 450g minced lamb; ½ red onion, finely chopped; 2 garlic cloves, crushed; 1 medium free-range egg; 2tsp ras el hanout; 30g fresh white breadcrumbs; 1tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley;
2tbsp olive oil; Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. For the sauce: 1tbsp olive oil; ½ red onion, finely chopped; 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped; 1 heaped tbsp harissa paste; Grated zest of 1 lemon; 400g tin chopped tomatoes; 100ml chicken stock; 400g tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed. To serve: Handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped; Couscous, steamed; Greek yoghurt; Flatbreads, charred and torn
In a large bowl, mix the lamb with the red onion, garlic, egg, ras el hanout, breadcrumbs and parsley. Season well and with wet hands, shape into 20 walnut-sized balls.
Heat the two tablespoons of oil in a frying pan or using the sauté function on the slow cooker and brown the meatballs all over.
Transfer to a plate. Now for the sauce. Add the one tablespoon of oil to the pan or slow cooker and gently fry the onion for five minutes, then add the garlic, harissa and lemon zest, and cook for one minute more.
Transfer to the slow cooker (if you’re not already using it), then add the meatballs. Pour over the chopped tomatoes and stock.
Season well and cook on high for four hours, then add the chickpeas and cook for a further 30 minutes. If the sauce is too juicy at the end, remove the meatballs and reduce to your liking in a pan or using the sauté function on your slow cooker. Serve the meatballs and sauce scattered with parsley, with steamed couscous, a dollop of yoghurt and flatbreads.
Irish coffee, hazelnut and chocolate tiramisu
Tiramisu is one of Donal’s “go-to desserts to feed a crowd”. He says: “This version is the latest twist and an homage to that favourite afterdinner treat: Irish coffee topped with whipped cream.”
Serves 6. Ingredients: 400ml double cream; 250g mascarpone; 4tbsp caster sugar; 75ml Baileys; 300ml strong coffee; 75ml whiskey; 200g Savoiardi sponge fingers; 100g hazelnuts, toasted and roughly crushed in a pestle and mortar; 75g dark chocolate, grated
Put the cream, mascarpone and sugar into a bowl and whisk by hand with a balloon whisk until it is thick and luscious. Whisk in the Baileys and set aside.
Mix the coffee and whiskey together in a shallow dish. Dip the sponge fingers into this mixture and put a layer of them into a glass serving dish. Spread over a third of the mascarpone mixture and scatter with a third of the nuts and chocolate. Repeat to make two more layers, finishing with a layer of cream scattered with nuts and chocolate. Chill for at least two hours before serving.