Broader horizons
From New York State to South Africa, innovative wine producers are working hard to create new flavours to freshen up jaded palettes, writes Christine Austin.
WHAT’S your favourite wine? I am asked that question so often that I have a ready answer – “it all depends on the food, my mood and who is paying”. But to be honest, I don’t have a favourite. I love the adventure of tasting new wines from old and new regions. There are always new winemakers, talented people who explore different grapes, techniques and flavours and I am delighted to hear about initiatives in the vineyards, perhaps sustainability for the land, or even the development for the people who work there.
Recently I have come across some wines that have provided new flavours and new interests. Here are some to try.
LAMOREAUX LANDING, FINGER LAKES, NEW YORK STATE
Look at a map of New York State, south of
Lake Ontario there is a line of 11 long thin lakes carved out by Ice Age glaciers. Known as the Finger Lakes, they have an important role in moderating the usual harsh winter climate. Seneca Lake is the largest (38 miles long) and deepest (600 feet) and, after its previous role as a testing place for US submarines, it is now home to 60 vineyards and wineries, which cluster on slopes close to the water.
This is a cool, almost cold climate region, but over the years growers have worked first with hardy non-vinifera vines and then vinifera varieties such as Riesling to make seriously good wines. As expertise with rootstocks and frost prevention has increased, the range of grape varieties has widened. I visited the Finger
Lakes region over a decade ago, but it has taken time for the wines to appear on our shelves, so I was delighted to find Lamoreaux Landing now well established in Yorkshire merchants.
Lamoreaux Landing is now run by founder Mark Wagner and former nuclear engineer
Josh Wig. With 119 acres of vines, planted on well-drained loamy soil, known as honeyoye, they grow mainly Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc, with small parcels of other grapes such as Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Gruner Veltliner.
“Cabernet Franc is surprisingly cold tolerant, and ripens well, especially with a fairly small crop,” said Josh, all those years ago when I visited the estate, and while the samples I tried at the time were good, I was very impressed by the latest vintage of T23 Lamoreaux Landing Cabernet Franc 2021. Light in colour, the nose has an aroma like a fistful of freshly crushed raspberries, leading on to a palate of cherry and blueberry fruit, with a fresh, clear, unoaked finish. At only 12 per cent alcohol, this is a bright, lively enjoyable wine that will go wonderfully with herb-spiked roast chicken. Available from Latitude Wines in Leeds at £23.50 and also from Barrique Fine Wines (www.barriquefinewines.com) which operates from Ossett. Barrique’s price is also £23.50, and you get 10 per cent off your first order.
Also worth a try from Lamoreaux is the Gruner Veltliner 2021 (Barrique £24.95, also at Martinez Wines), which steps away from the more austere Austrian style of this grape to show ripe yellow stone fruit and an underlying citrus thread with a rounded texture that goes fabulously with creamy pasta.
SPIER, SOUTH AFRICA
Considering its extensive vineyards and
substantial wine production, it is surprising that we do not see more of Spier’s wine on our shelves. With a healthy local market as well as a thriving export trade to Scandinavia, the UK has missed out on these terrific wines, but that might be about to change.
The Spier estate was founded in 1692 and has a great deal of history and beautiful buildings, but now its focus is definitely on the future. Earlier this year I visited Spier with head winemaker Johan Jordaan and spent the day, not only tasting through the wines, but visiting the estate which spreads over a huge area including part of a mountain, as well as one of the best hotel and restaurant complexes in the area. “We are changing the way we cultivate vines,” said Johan, as we drove up and down hills and along roads so bumpy it was difficult to make notes, so I took pictures instead.
There are organic vineyards, biodynamic vineyards, regenerative projects, a scheme for reusing old thatch from local houses to build up soil quality, and cattle overwintering to help the fertility of the soil. Invasive plant species have been removed and native plants propagated and planted. For all this environmental work Spier has won fistfuls of awards, and the quality of the wine is good too, with top medals from globally important competitions.
Spier is not just looking after the land; it looks after its people too. While I was there, we investigated its Growing for Good project, encouraging local communities to develop their own skills, and we drove past the on-site school – all part of the commitment of this estate to be part of the wider community.
So far Marks & Spencer is the only national distributor with a Spier wine. Try Bay View Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (£9), for fresh-tasting, citrus-zesty flavours but I would be delighted to see the Good Natured range of organic wines from Spier make their way into local independent stores. The Chenin Blanc has a creamy, honeydew melon notes while the red, a Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon blend, is ripe and full of flavour. These should cost around £10 and, if shops or restaurants are interested in listing them, contact Jascots.co.uk.
GRAPES
It is so easy to get locked into particular grape varieties. Most supermarkets have dozens of Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays, but it is difficult to find more than one each of unusual varieties such as Feteasca Regala or Greco di Tufo. If you find yourself always picking up the same grape variety, or choosing the one that is on special offer, why not enjoy a tasting adventure with something different? Try the juicy, red-berry fruit of M&S Found Refosco from Italy (£7.50) or the floral and citrus notes of Waitrose Loved and Found Carignan Blanc from France (£8.99).