Tipples by the tinsel
Still to work out what wines you plan to pour with Christmas dinner or to greet visitors who drop in? Christine Austin has a few festive selections to help you set the table.
HOW are your Christmas plans shaping up? Will you have the whole family squeezed around the table, or will you be heading up or down country, or even to an airport, to spend time with the people you love? At some point you will need to work out what you will have for dinner.
This is the time to push the boat out, to have some wines to savour and enjoy, with those you love. Here are a few suggestions for whites, reds and maybe something special you should have within reach.
WHITE WINES
■ Extra Special Fiano 2022, Terre di Siciliane, Italy, Asda, £6.75: This is a terrific pouring wine for visitors. Aromatic and delicious, it has citrus and nectarine fruit, with a twist of Mediterranean herbs. Goes well with smoked salmon nibbles. ■ Chablis Esprit de Chablis 2022, France, Waitrose, down from £17.99 to £10 until Wednesday: Just one of the Waitrose fine wines on offer at a fabulous price, until stocks run out. This is seriously good Chablis with crunchy citrus flavours that will drink well over the festive season. If it has sold out, then head to Tesco where its own-label Finest Chablis 2022 is down from £14.50 to £10 until December 31. Tight, lean and fresh with a minerally finish.
■ Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2021, France, Booths, £10.75: When you are not sure whether your guests would like a Sauvignon or a Chardonnay, try them with a Rhône blend. Made from a mix of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Clairette, this has the freshness of a Sauvignon, the weight of a Chardonnay, and the ability to wrap itself around food, from salmon to a late-night turkey sandwich.
■ Palliser Estate Pencarrow Sauvignon Blanc 2021, Martinborough, New Zealand,
Field & Fawcett, £12.40: A ripe, citrus, passionfruit and herb-filled style of Sauvignon lasts on the palate and goes perfectly with Christmas buffets. Terrific as an aperitif too.
■ Sancerre Les Ruettes 2020, France, The Collection, Marks & Spencer, £16: If you are used to the big, green flavours of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, then this may seem muted, but the flavours in this Sancerre are all there. There is citrus, yellow capsicum, a touch of newly cut grass and a sprinkle of herbs, but above all there is the crunch, like walking across a pebble beach. Team with prawns, salmon or fish and chips.
■ Alheit Vineyards Hereafter Here 2022, Chenin Blanc, South Africa, Harrogate Wines, £29.99: Made from young Chenin Blanc vines that will, one day, go into Cartology, but winemaker Chris Alheit likes to plan ahead. This is getting better, vintage by vintage and it has all the honeysuckle, green apple and white peach notes of the bigger wine. Team with roast pork or salmon.
RED WINES
■ Porcupine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, South Africa, Tesco, down from £8.50 to £7.50 until December 31: Always keep a stock of decent, inexpensive drinking wine in stock at Christmas and this one is perfect. Big and full of cassis and plum fruit that can be enjoyed on its own, although it will accompany a sausage roll or even a beefburger with style.
■ Zuccardi Q Malbec 2020, Argentina,
Cellar Selected, £15.45: If you are planning a three-rib roast for the big day, then this wine has the power and flavour to stand up to the meat. From high- altitude vineyards, it has dark plum and blackberry fruit, spice and chocolate, with silky, supple tannins.
■ Bodegas Muga Reserva Tinto Rioja 2019, Spain, Martinez Wines, £20.99: When you can buy a young Rioja for under a fiver, why splash out on this? Because this is at a completely different level of quality. The family business uses only oak barrels and vats in the winery and this wine reflects the quality of the grapes with ripe dark cherry fruit, laced with damsons. There is oak gathered around the edges, but it does not dominate. Rioja is so good with a traditional turkey roast, and it goes well with the cheese after.
■ Ambroise, Bourgogne Cuvée 2021, France, Bon Coeur £22, while stocks last: Browsing through affordable Burgundy is an expensive hobby, so I took on that task for you and discovered this plush, fruit-filled example from Bon Coeur. Made from old vines which give, bigger, deeper flavours, it will happily accompany turkey and trimmings, or go well with roast duck.
■ Ch le Jurat St Emilion Grand Cru 2016, Bordeaux, France, Majestic, £22.99 on a mix-six deal: Exceptional flavours in this wine that comes from vineyards right next to Ch. Grand Corbin and is made by Corbin’s winemaker. The result is a firm outline of flavours, with ripe cassis fruit and savoury layers of olives and dried herbs.
■ Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico Riserva 2018, Italy, Tuscany, Roberts & Speight, £25.99: For 30 years, It has been a labour of love for Francesco Ricasoli to restore his family’s historic estate and vineyards. Research into clones, soils and cultivation is finetuning flavours and this wine is right on song, with rounded, creamy red cherry fruit and a long, savoury finish.
SOMETHING SPECIAL
■ Finest Sauternes 2018, Bordeaux, France, Tesco, £13.50: A perfect balance of sweet and sour, with rounded peach notes backed by fresh clean acidity. Don’t wait for dinner. Team this alongside a small slice of mid-afternoon apricot tart.
■ Disznóko Late Harvest 2020, Tokaji, Hungary, Bon Coeur, £21.95: The great delight of Christmas entertaining is that people drop in for just a short time, then dash off to do more shopping or see more people. A wine like this is perfect for the “drop in and have a slice of cake” visitor. Line up a lemon drizzle cake, pour a small glass and the flavours will complement each other perfectly. There’s citrus, nectarine and apricot, definitely not oversweet, backed by fabulous acidity.