Looking for truffle
Christine Austin goes in search of savoury as she takes a seat for the Chianti Classico Collection 2024 tastings in the grand setting of Florence’s old Leopolda railway station.
THERE must have been a thousand bottles of wine stretching down the length of the old Leopolda station in Florence during the Chianti Classico Collection 2024 tastings. This is the event of the year, when Tuscan producers present their new vintages of Chianti Classico together with some of their older wines to be appraised. Journalists fly in from Japan, China, Europe, Canada and the USA to claim one of the coveted seats in this grand old building which no longer has trains but still has the tracks in the floor where they used to run.
To avoid the usual crush around the tables when a bunch of journalists try to find the particular bottle they want, the whole event is under the control of a cohort of highly trained Italian sommeliers. While the journalists sit in their places with a set of six glasses and notepads, the sommeliers seek and find each particular bottle requested, and bring it, quietly, efficiently and with absolutely no running, back to the writer, then pour exactly the right amount into a glass. The whole wine selection is online, so over two days, the process of asking for certain wines, then tasting and notetaking happens in almost silence.
My main objective in going to Florence was to evaluate the 2022 vintage, which is now released and making its way into shops, while I also wanted to check out older vintages. It was also a chance to compare a number of Gran Selezione wines which are rarely lined up against each other. This is a category that was first approved 10 years ago but it has taken some time to establish its place on the shelves.
In case the word Chianti has you thinking of straw-covered flasks and fairly cheap, cheerful wine, you have missed out on a whole lot of legislation and quality improvement. Just like many wine regions of Italy, there is a heartland where some of the best land, hillsides and vines produce the best wines. This is Chianti
Classico, which lies between Florence and Siena. Surrounding this region there are significant producers + that can attach their own particular geographic name to Chianti, such as Chianti Colli Fiorentini and Chianti Rufina.
Within Chianti Classico, Sangiovese must make up 80 per cent, with local and international grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon permitted in the mix, although there is a steady trend towards 100 per cent Sangiovese. This is the grape that gives Chianti Classico its characteristic plump, ripe cherry fruit with a gentle backbone and fresh, food-friendly acidity. As it ages, it develops savoury, almost truffle notes which add complexity to the wine and make it a perfect match with roast meats or any dish where there are mushrooms on the plate.
Chianti Classico must be aged for at least a year before being sold, while Riserva wines must spend a total of two years aging, mainly in wood, with a final three months in bottle before being released to the market. Moving up the scale is Gran Selezione, which must be made from at least 90 per cent Sangiovese and aged for 30 months, with all grapes coming from a single estate.
On the first day of tasting I called in dozens of the 2022 wines, some of which are relevant to our merchants in Yorkshire. The early summer of 2022 was hot and very dry but then rains arrived in August, giving valuable water to the vines and preventing the grapes from becoming over-ripe. Acidity levels were remarkably good, with fruit to the fore and a satisfying
roundness of flavour. I then moved on through the various vintages and classifications on offer. These are the best I found.
TOP WINES FROM THE 2022 VINTAGE
■ Banfi Chianti Classico 2022: With 10 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and five per cent Merlot filling in any gaps in the Sangiovese profile, this has bright, juicy fruit and terrific palate weight. Bon Coeur has stocks of the 2020 vintage at £21.34.
■ Principe Corsini Le Corti Chianti Classico 2022: Ninety-five per cent Sangiovese gives this wine a suppleness and freshness of flavour while still packing some power and tannins that will wait a few years. Field & Fawcett has the 2019 vintage at £20.75.
■ Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2022: Ninety per cent Sangiovese with 10 per cent Merlot in the mix gives this a lovely depth of flavour with enough grip to develop well. The Wine Society has the Volpaia 2021 at £20.
■ Other top wines from 2022 include the elegant Felsina Beradenga, robust Riecine and deep-flavoured Tregole.
TOP WINES FROM THE 2021 VINTAGE
■ Fontodi Filetta di Lamole Chianti Classico 2021: Immediate grip that just melts away into supple fruit with layers of fruit and savoury notes. The Wine Society has the 2019 vintage at £24.
■ Dievole Petrignano Chianti Classico 2021: It is so good to see this property show well after the massive renovations of vineyard and winery. Dark fruits, almost chunky. Premier Cru has the 2019 vintage at £26.19.
■ Querciabella Chianti Classico 2021: 100 per cent Sangiovese grapes in this elegant, concentrated, balanced wine. Hic! Wine Merchants has the 2019 vintage. Go snap it up.
■ Other top wines from 2021 include Isole e Olena, Badia a Coltibuono and Pruneto.
TOP GRAN SELEZIONE WINES
■ Castello di Fonterutoli Gran Selezione 2021: Still much too young with positive, concentrated fruit and a thread of firm, ripe tannins across the palate. Roberts & Speight have the 2018 vintage at £49.99.
■ Querceto di Castellina, Sei, Gran Selezione 2020: Silky and gentle initially with power coming through on the palate and a savoury finish.
■ Principe Corsini Don Tommaso Gran Selezione 2020: Good to see this historic property score so well. Balanced, firm and will develop well.
■ Frescobaldi Rialzi Gran Selezione 2019: 100 per cent Sangiovese and meticulous winemaking gives this wine a structure and silkiness that will last and develop for several more years.