On Plate opposite
Argentina’s northern neighbour across the river estuary is making waves in the wine world. Christine Austin puts Uruguay to the taste test without leaving our shores..
EVERY wine drinker is happy to reach for a Chilean Cabernet or an Argentinian Malbec for their weekend drinking, confident that they will provide well-made, positive flavours to go with the roast. But there is more to South America than these two countries. Chilean vineyards rely on cool breezes coming in from the Pacific, and Argentina’s vines are planted on the foothills of the Andes to achieve the best growing conditions. But over on the eastern coast of this continent there is another wine-producing country that is just starting to make an impact in our market.
Uruguay is Argentina’s neighbour, a 75-minute ferry ride north from Buenos Aires across the River Plate, and is just a bit bigger than England and Wales put together. Despite its small size, the country has a long Atlantic coastline with spectacular beaches which attract hordes of holidaymakers. Stylish resorts such Punta del Este are like St Tropez, packed with top name shops and restaurants while the harbour is crammed with expensive yachts.
In terms of climate, Uruguay is closer to Bordeaux or Galicia than Mendoza. There is a lot more rain here than in Mendoza, which means that irrigation is often not needed. There is plenty of warm sunshine to ripen the grapes, while evenings are cooled by breezes that come straight off the Atlantic.
Winemaking has been established for centuries, introduced mainly by immigrants from Spain, Italy and France who brought cuttings from home and established small family vineyards. In the 1860s, it is thought that Basque immigrant Pascual Harriague introduced the red grape variety Tannat, probably sourced from Madiran in France. Tannat grew well and made powerful, long-lived wines and so it became the signature grape of Uruguay.
Tannat, as indicated by its name, makes wines that have a lot of tannin and when, around 20 years ago I made a flying visit to Uruguay to tour of some of the best-known wineries, I tasted some fairly powerful, tannic wines. They had wonderful fruit but needed several years to soften.
Then five years ago I returned to taste the wines of just one producer, Garzon, which, with the backing of one of South America’s richest men, has been created solely with the aim of producing top-quality wines. The contrast was astonishing. These wines were balanced, supple and elegant.
That change has not just been happening in one winery, though. There has been a massive government-led initiative to improve vines, winemaking and quality, with the aim of exporting more. That is why last week the first Wines of Uruguay tasting took place in the UK.
Around 90 per cent of Uruguay’s wine comes from the coastal region, from regions such as Canelones, close to the capital Montevideo,
San José to the west and Maldonaldo to the east. While most producers have at least one Tannat-based wine in their range, there has been an explosion of other varieties such as Albariño, Viognier, Marsanne, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. There are many producers making Pet Nat sparkling wines and exploring fashionable orange wines.
These are some of the best:
BODEGA GARZON
After so much investment – rumoured to be around $85m – it is hardly surprising that
these wines shone out for their quality. Vineyards and winery are a no-expense-spared operation with raw land transformed into a mini-Tuscany of slopes that capture varied expositions and sunshine.
■ Bodega Garzon Albariño Reserve 2022, Hic!, Ledston, £19.50: Aromatic with soft peach and citrus fruit and a rounded, texture.
■ Bodega Garzon Reserve Marselan 2021, Roberts & Speight, Beverley, £20.99: This southern French grape does well in Uruguay, giving dark red fruit flavours with a smooth, rounded style.
■ Bodega Garzon Tannat 2021, Corks & Cases, Masham, £17.25: Deep in colour with plum and blackberry fruit and hints of spice in the profile, this has tannin well under control with enough gentle structure to take on a steak.
■ Bodega Garzon Tannat Reserva 2021, Latitude Wine, Leeds, £20.99: Layers of flavour and a long, elegant finish show that this is a step up in quality with spice dusted raspberries and damson plums giving tremendous personality and style.
FAMILIA DEICAS
A long-established winery now brought completely up to date with a focus on low-intervention winemaking.
■ Familia Deicas Gran Bodegón 2017, the Wine Society, £29: Aged for 22 months in oak, Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Marselan work together to give deep, dark red and black fruit flavours with a lifted aromas and a plush mid-palate from Merlot.
■ Bodegones del Sur Cabernet Franc 2023, Wines of Uruguay, £17.99: Not yet available in Yorkshire, this is an outstanding wine with blueberry and dark raspberry fruit, with a thread of freshness across the palate.
BOUZA
Famous for their Tannats, the Bouza family are now making terrific Albariño and Chardonnay wines.
■ Bodega Bouza Chardonnay 2021, Field & Fawcett, £26.85: Clean, fresh flavours of tropical fruit, melon and citrus in this Chardonnay that has been partly oak fermented and aged.
■ Bodega Bouza Albariño 2022, Field & Fawcett, £28.60: An outstanding fresh-tasting wine with lemon blossom on the nose, crunchy apple and pear fruit, with spice and a hint of vanilla.
■ Castel Pujol
■ Based in the north, close to Brazil, Bodega Cerro Chapeu makes exciting pet nat under the Castel Pujol label.
■ Castel Pujol Folklore Pet Nat, Latitude Wines, £14.99: Clean yet cloudy, with brioche and honey notes and a fresh finish. A perfect aperitif.