BRAISED PORK WITH FENNEL AND TOMATOES

These days, when meat costs are high, it is worth eating better quality, less often. Intensively reared pork will not have the sweetness and rich, firm texture you get with a lovely bit of happy outdoor-reared variety. I have suggested belly here as it is a cheaper cut. You can buy the belly with or without bones. I think having the bones keeps the meat from getting dry, and because the end product is soft and yielding, the meat should come away very easily.

FOR 4-6

4 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked, or 1 tbsp dried thyme

few sprigs of basil, leaves picked, stalks very finely chopped

zest and juice of 1 lemon; peel one long ribbon of zest using a vegetable peeler and grate the rest 1 tbsp fennel seeds, slightly crushed 800g pork belly, skin scored

2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus an extra splash

8 garlic cloves, sliced

2 red onions, cut into sixths

2 fennel bulbs, cut into sixths lengthways

4 large tomatoes, peeled and cut in half

480g waxy small potatoes, cut in half

1 bay leaf splash of Pernod if you have it (very much optional)

200ml vegetable or chicken stock 120ml white wine, cider or apple juice (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 240C/220C fan/gas 9 and heat a roasting pan at the same time. Toss the thyme, finely chopped basil stalks, grated lemon zest, fennel seeds, salt and a generous grind of pepper together.

Season the underside of the pork belly thoroughly, then flip it over and make sure the skin is very dry. Rub the pork well with the vegetable oil followed by the thyme mixture, pressing this on to the skin well and letting it get into the scored bits. I usually add a little more salt at this stage – it will take more than you imagine.

Take the hot roasting pan out of the oven, add a splash of oil, then add the pork belly. Return to the oven and cook for 20-30 minutes until it’s nice and brown.

In the meantime, toss together all the vegetables, except the potatoes, in a large bowl with a good dose of seasoning, the ribbon

of lemon zest, the bay leaf, lemon juice and Pernod, if using.

Bring the stock and wine, if using, to the boil in a large saucepan and keep it hot.

When the pork belly is browned, turn the oven temperature down to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Take the roasting pan out of the oven, carefully lift out the meat and set aside, then pour off all the fat.

Pour the hot stock into the roasting pan and, using a whisk, have a good go at lifting up all the flavours on the bottom of the pan. Add 1 tbsp of the pork fat to the bowl of vegetables, mix well, then add them to the roasting pan with the stock, making an even layer for the pork to sit on. Return the pork to the pan and cover with kitchen foil. Cook for 1 hour. At this stage, you can add the potatoes, put the foil back on and cook for a further 45 minutes. The pork should be meltingly tender and you should be able to put a fork through it.

If not, return to the oven for a further 30 minutes and check again.

Lift the pork out of the roasting pan and leave to rest in a warm place for 15 minutes. If you want crispy skin, preheat the grill to its highest setting.

Using a slotted spoon, lift the vegetables out of the cooking liquor and if there is a lot of liquid pour it into a saucepan and let it reduce down a little on the hob.

Once the pork has rested, put it under the grill until the skin is crisp, if you like, then rest again while you bring everything together.

Tear the basil leaves into the vegetable mix and spoon this on to warmed plates. Slice the meltingly soft pork and place on top of the vegetables with sauce over it. Serve extra sauce in a warm jug.

LEFTOVERS Pork belly will produce a goodly amount of fat. This will keep incredibly well in a sealed jar in your fridge and is fantastic for frying. It also makes miraculous roast potatoes.