Why these acids reign

They’re skincare superheroes that tackle everything from redness to ageing, says Alice Robertson

Acids have long been a part of the skincare wardrobe of beauty buffs, and they’re not as scary as they sound. Also known as chemical exfoliants, they are dermatologists’ route to radiant skin. Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, skin expert and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic (adoniamedicalclinic.co.uk), chooses them over physical exfoliants (scrubs made from pulverised fruit stones or environmentally unfriendly plastic beads) because there’s less risk of damaging your epidermis.

These acids dissolve dead skin cells, which promotes cell turnover to leave a smoother, clearer, more glowing complexion. With that clean canvas, other products can penetrate deeper and work harder.

Glycolic acid is probably the best known and, as the smallest molecule in the acid family, it’s particularly effective at getting between cells. However, there are lots of different types and concentrations of acid, which can be baffling when deciding what’s right for you. Thankfully, this also means there is generally an acid for every skin type, whether your issue is pigmentation, dryness or blemishes.

Know your acids

AHAS (alphahydroxy acids) are water soluble and work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells. Effects Refine skin tone, improve signs of ageing and dry skin.

Types Glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, tartaric.

BHAS (betahydroxy acids) are oil soluble and work in the same way as AHAS – but as they are able to penetrate through oils, they can break down dead skin cells and debris within the pores, too.

Effects Reduce blemishes and breakouts as well as improve radiance, texture and visible signs of ageing.

Type Salicylic.

DCAS (dicarboxylic acids) do the work of both AHAS and BHAS, working on the surface while also penetrating deeply. Larger molecules mean they’re less likely to cause side-effects for sensitive skin. A good choice for people who are pregnant. Effects Reduce redness and blemishes, gently exfoliating and unclogging pores. Types Azelaic, succinic.

Need to know Hyaluronic acid, despite the name, is not an exfoliating acid, but a water magnet that’s a great hydrator for skin.