SMOKED HADDOCK WITH POTATOES, SPINACH, CREAM AND THYME

Most good fishmongers and supermarket fish counters sell naturally smoked fish, which is pale yellow in colour. Avoid anything bright yellow, as this will have been dyed and likely dipped in a smoke-flavoured cure rather than smoked.

If you have any leftovers, thin down with a little stock next day for a chowder-like lunch.

SERVES 4

★ 500g new potatoes (skin on)

★ 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

★ 2 leeks, trimmed and cut into 1cm slices

★ 5 sprigs of thyme

★ 200g spinach (tougher stalks removed and roughly chopped if using large-leaf spinach)

★ 400g Msc-certified smoked haddock fillets (or any sustainably caught white fish, smoked), pin-boned and skinned

★ 400ml double cream

★ small glass of dry white wine

★ 50g mature cheddar, grated

★ 20g pumpkin seeds

★ pinch of paprika

★ sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper

1 Preheat the oven to 220C/ 200C fan/gas 7. Put the potatoes in an ovenproof pan or roasting tray. Trickle over the extra virgin olive oil, season lightly with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Roast for 25-30 minutes until the potatoes are just softened.

2 Take the pan out of the oven and use the back of a fork to gently break each potato. Add the leeks and thyme, stir and roast in the oven for 10 minutes. Now add the spinach and return to the oven for a couple of minutes until it is just wilted.

3 Meanwhile, cut the fish into 2cm cubes. Remove the pan from the oven and add the smoked haddock, cream and white wine. Stir together and return to the oven for 12-15 minutes, until the fish is cooked. 4 Remove the pan again and increase the oven setting to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Sprinkle over the grated cheese, the pumpkin seeds and a pinch of paprika. Return to the oven for a few minutes until the cheese is melted and starting to brown. Serve at once.

SWAPS

Replace the smoked fish with chestnut mushrooms for a vegetarian version.