DIY masterclass

One of the easiest ways to entice nature into your garden is with a small wildlife pond – and it’s easier than you might think to build your own!

Learn how to make your very own wildlife pond to attract new flora and fauna into your garden

We all share our gardens with a range of birds and beasties, but by making a pond, however small, you can create a useful habitat for all sorts of wildlife, as well as an attractive feature for your garden. It’s a two-person job, and you’ll reap the rewards quickly, with new creatures appearing within weeks.

A successful wildlife pond is all about balance – a good mix of aquatic plants and open space, of shallow muddy bits and deeper water. The more variety you can add to the pond, the greater the diversity of plants and wildlife it’ll support. But don’t fret that you’ll have to spend lots of time on pond care – once a wildlife pond is in, it should just need a little autumn clear-up and spring refresher.

SHOPPING LIST

Spade Builders’ sand Fabric pond underlay Broom Butyl pond liner (roughly length of the pond x twice its depth) Hosepipe Pebbles (for the beach) Rocks (for basking) Edging stones Strong scissors A selection of pond plants and planting baskets

1 When digging out the pond, aim for a bowl shape, with gently sloping shallows which, as they descend, flatten out into planting shelves. Think of the shape resembling that of a snail’s shell, with the shelves coiling around the edge, down to the deeper central hole. Remove any stones or roots that could pierce the liner.

2 Cushioning the pond’s liner is allimportant, to avoid punctures. If you’re digging your pond in an existing border, as we are here, it’s important to protect against stones or stray roots in the soil. Add a 3cm layer of damp builders’ sand, which is fairly cheap and easily moulded to the pond’s contours.

3 The second layer of protection for the liner is a tough, man-made fabric underlay, which is light and easy to handle. We added this extra layer because of the garden’s stony soil, while the fabric is also a good barrier to roots. Shape it to the contours with a brush-head and hold in place with a few bricks.

4 Manoeuvring the butyl liner into place is awkward – it’s really a two-person job. Lift the liner across the full width of the hole before lowering it into place. Alternatively, secure the rolled liner on one side of the hole with bricks, then carefully unroll it, smoothing it into the contours as you go.

5 Now for the chilliest part of the build. Set the hose running, using the weight of water to mould the liner into all the contours, while you fold large, flat pleats where the liner overlaps. It’s easiest to do this from within the pond (in bare feet to protect the liner!), but you could lean in from the edges if it’s too cold.

6 Frogs, small animals and birds like to bask and bathe on sunny days, so a gently sloping pebbled ‘beach’ makes the perfect spot for them, and gives easy access in and out of the water. We’re using a deep layer of cobbles, pebbles and gravel, and a semi-submerged ‘basking’ rock, all washed down to remove dust.

7 Work your way around the pond with the edging stones, ensuring they sit firmly on the liner, supported by a flat bed of earth, so they don’t wobble. This way, there’s no need to cement the stones in place – just make a house rule that no one walks on them! Once the edging is in place, cut away any excess liner.

8 Gently lower the plant baskets on to the shelves. After planting, the pond water will be cloudy for a week or so and is likely to turn green because of nutrients being introduced. It will clear as a healthy balance is achieved. To reach into your pond to place, say, a water lily, tie string through the basket and over a pole.