Spending Christmas at my friends’ place in Corfu I came across a book, Miranda July’s “No one belongs here more than you”. Its main ideas – love and relationships - are echoed by the theme of our February issue. It would take just a couple of words to retell each of the stories: they basically have no storyline to speak about. A man lying in the bath, longing to be loved. An epileptic neighbor having a seizure, with a heroine, who should call an ambulance, but prefers to sit down next to him, falling asleep on his shoulder. A woman, woken up by a burglar, instead of waking up her husband, listening to the burglar breathing. To feel all of this, July shares her philosophy between the lines with her readers, a philosophy of simple gestures: instead of starting a storm of emotions to show you love someone, all you have to do is come up to that person from behind and hug them. Her characters often prefer cuddling to sex: they stand very close to each other, listening to each other’s breathing, or press their feet against the other’s, or simply cry, hugging, because crying in silence is the best way to say “I love you”.
Then the angle changes, offering, like in a movie, a new picture – July starts speaking about something of no importance: tables, chairs, different objects… It happens when after saying too much an awkward silence sets in, begging to be filled with idle talk.
In our stories shot for this issue, we try to speak about feelings. The romantic “Stolen Kisses” (p. 152) is a story to return to time and again, drawing inspiration from it. Just as exciting are the works by photographers Clara Giaminardi (“Art Academy”, p. 138), Marco van Rijt (“City of Women”, p. 130) and Tung Walsh (“Adventure”, p. 112).
Eka Iukuridze, a woman behind Paris-based Les Suits, explains how to buy a flat of a legendary actress and couple museum pieces with jeans Eka
I am a complex character, aesthete and citizen of the world. I was born in Odessa, studied in London and Barcelona, live in Paris and speak six languages. The best definition I’ve ever been given is a practical dreamer. I manage to put into life anything I set my mind on – all I need is a picture in my mind. I believe in world peace, freedom of choice and gender equality. Paris
I decided to move when I got my Master’s degree and graduated from a drama school: Barcelona had become too small for me. Despite all the charm of Paris, its fashion scene left me disappointed: instead of the French Vogue pages come to life I was met with crowds of the Chinese, bad service and retailers crazy about «easy pieces’ – that’s what buyers call neutral basic clothes that sell well. I wanted to create a space, which would offer a cultural insight into international fashion with my idea of the atmosphere of Paris and sell «complex» pieces. That was how Les Suits came to be. It has recently turned five. Style
Eclectic. I get energy from «hunting down» clothes and can spend five days in the wardrobe, pairing up different pieces. I love vintage and embroidery. I remember this Indonesian brand Peachoo Krejberg – I sold them in my boutique. The guys made gorgeous, super modern handmade pieces, but did not survive the commercial reality. I bought out their whole archive from The Victoria and Albert Museum in London and often wear museum exhibits with jeans. For the store, I pick only exceptional pieces with a powerful personality, which represent a designer’s vision and their DNA. In my personal wardrobe, I mix them with good basic clothes and menswear: I love this male-female game. I have no fashion taboos: I believe that leggings, velour pants, thigh-high boots, at some point seen as kitschy, can play the leading role in an ensemble if interpreted correctly. Flat
I bought the very first flat I had gone to see. When I came there, I was stunned by the number of pictures of Ingrid Bergman and Isabella Rossellini. It turned out the flat belonged to the actress, and my hot guide Roberto, who showed me around, was actually her brother.
In the Paris-hamburg collection, Grin’s Assol, dressed up by Karl Lagerfeld, is watching out for a yellow submarine on the horizon rather than the proverbial scarlet sails
Karl Lagerfeld brought his 15th Métiers d’art collection where it had been least expected. The fashion crowd hardly ever comes to Europe’s main port, even though it can boast at least two big reasons that make it worth the global fashion industry’s attention: it is the place where in 1938 Karl Lagerfeld was born; and in the mid-1960s it became home to Jil Sander, who was preparing to set out on her own crusade against superfluity.
Pre-fall shows are always most intimate: they are staged without Chanel’s traditional extravagance, which could distract spectators from the result of many hours of work done by petite mains. Here, pieces speak for themselves and also a little about that guy who for almost 35 years has been developing the ideas of the Great Mademoiselle. The viewing platform of the Elbphilharmonie concert hall offers a breathtaking vista of Hamburg’s main resources – the gigantic port and the wide Elbe River delta. So does the Hamburg collection of the Paris-based brand, presenting the themes, picked by the Creative Director – seaside romance, cosmopolitism, progressiveness and easy ways of a big port city.
Coco Chanel’s love for the Breton shirt is a fact well known to Chanel’s fans. Karl Lagerfeld did not miss an opportunity to make his own reference to the striped theme. A proper circulation of the youth energy in the collection is ensured by flared trousers and short skirts, which in our rather democratic times will look appropriate both at the Philharmonie and on Reeperbahn. Just as alluring are the details: Desrues costume buttons and fantasy ornaments by Goossens, knitwear by the Scottish cashmere specialist Barrie, spectacular silks in full sequined pave by Lesage and Montex embroiderers, as well as cocktail dresses adorned with hand painted Lemarié feathers. The most romantic details of the collection are the hats – milliners from Maison Michel did a great job, supplying veiled tweed sailor caps for 87 of 89 looks. In six months or so, these caps will reach Kiev’s banks – and we will finally have the headwear fit to be respectfully taken off in a greeting to a silver-haired director, while remembering the perfectly orchestrated show.