Albany Times Union (Sunday)

St. Lucia: A Caribbean gem

Island offers wide range of diversions

- By Doug Hansen The San Diego Union-tribune

“Iwant to go to somewhere nice in the Caribbean,” my wife, Sharen, has told me maybe a thousand times. So finally, for her birthday, I arranged a five-day visit to St. Lucia that, I’m relieved to say, exceeded our expectatio­ns. Even though getting there required a couple of flights from our home in Carlsbad, California, it was worth the effort for a number of reasons, including super-nice people, memorable meals, spectacula­r landscapes, good beaches and lots of fun activities.

Based on our experience in St. Lucia, I’m suggesting a new marketing slogan: “The 4-C’s of St. Lucia: clean, courteous, colorful and comfortabl­e.”

Understand­ably, my wife’s first question was, “Where is St. Lucia?” The small island nation (27 miles long by 14 miles wide) with 185,000 residents lies in the eastern Caribbean Sea, northeast of St. Vincent, south of Martinique and 350 miles north of Venezuela. Fortunatel­y, we did not need a visa, though a passport was required. While most of the people can speak a variant of French called Creole, the official language spoken universall­y is English, which makes sense, given the country’s history of alternatin­g French and British colonizati­on for nearly 200 years. My Internet sleuthing also revealed that St. Lucia is known for having an attractive interior and being a great honeymoon destinatio­n (true!), and for its pitons (pointy mountains) and the Caribbean’s only drive-in volcano. So far so good.

After landing at the small, welcoming airport, we arranged for a driver to take us to the Landings Resort & Spa in the far north. The island’s only road led us past banana plantation­s, coconut palms and verdant mountains during the nearly two-hour drive. We appreciate­d the island’s cleanlines­s and constant breezes that kept down the moderate heat and humidity.

Only in the island’s capital and largest city, Castries, did we encounter a few minutes of traffic congestion. Once we entered the Landings’ gated compound, we felt at home among the tidy, twostory buildings that encircled a private marina. Our two-bedroom unit overlooked one of the resort’s three pools and the marina’s assorted boats. With elegant furnishing­s, a full kitchen and a 200-square-foot balcony with a private whirlpool spa, our room was spacious, attractive and comfortabl­e. At breakfast the next morning, my wife looked positively radiant as she surveyed more than 20 food choices. That evening, our outdoor candleligh­t dinner at The Palms by the marina couldn’t have been nicer or more romantic.

Since the north part of the island is known for its upscale homes, hotels and restaurant­s, we decided to check out several special places, starting with the Bodyholida­y Saint Lucia hotel and spa. We ate lunch by the beach at one of the resort’s five restaurant­s and later mingled with guests from Europe and the U.S. who were there seeking rest and pampering, along with toprated meals and ample sunbathing by the curving, sandy beach. The resort might set a Guinness record for “most activities offered in one day” — I counted 45 listed on the signboard!

That night, we had an enchanting dinner at the Naked Fisherman restaurant, tucked away in the Cap Maison hotel’s compound. Dodging a brief rain shower, we walked down 93 steps to find the cozy restaurant perched on a large wood platform overlookin­g a beach tucked between two rocky cliffs. As we savored our grilled fish and baked bananas, a row of glowing tiki torches and a musician’s soothing songs provided the final touches to a memorable evening.

The next day we drove to Rainforest Adventures, where a cable car carried us a thousand feet up a mountainsi­de as a young woman educated us about the local fauna and flora. Below us we heard gleeful screams from riders careening down one of the attraction’s two zip-line courses. We finished with a 20-minute rainforest hike that introduced us to some of the island’s tropical flowers and exotic trees.

For our final three days, we headed south to the most picturesqu­e part of the island, just past the crowded but colorful town of Soufriere. What made this area so special were the Pitons — a pair of 2,500-foot-high volcanic spires, covered with greenery, that resembled a lion’s pointed canine teeth. We were excited to stay at the Ladera Resort because of its unique location, perched on a knife-edge ridge a thousand feet above the sea, in the middle of a UNESCO World Heritage site overlookin­g the Pitons.

To say our room at Ladera Resort was special is an understate­ment. As we entered the rectangula­r, all-wood room, we noticed the unusually high ceiling and

We were excited to stay at the Ladera Resort because of its unique location, perched on a knife-edge ridge a thousand feet above the sea, in the middle of a UNESCO World Heritage site overlookin­g the Pitons.

the mosquito-net-covered king bed, but nothing had prepared us for our postcard-perfect view of the Pitons towering over the azure bay below. The room’s open design meant that no walls or windows obstructed this surreal scene, which we relished as we reclined on our lounge chairs next to a private, indoor dipping pool. Each of the hotel’s rooms enjoyed the same view, as did the open-air restaurant and adjacent swimming pool. Not surprising­ly, many of the guests were honeymoone­rs.

Shortly after our arrival, we walked to the nearby Hotel Chocolat Boucan, known for its fine food and its chocolate-making tours. The property grows its own cacao and invites visitors to learn how to make chocolate from raw cacao beans.

After five memorable days, it was time to say goodbye to

St. Lucia and the good-natured people we met. How can you not fall in love with an island full of such nice people, spectacula­r scenery and so many fun things to do?

 ?? Photos by Doug Hansen / San Diego Union-tribune ?? We never got tired of the amazing view from our room at Ladera Resort, which was beautifull­y framed by our private dipping pool.
Photos by Doug Hansen / San Diego Union-tribune We never got tired of the amazing view from our room at Ladera Resort, which was beautifull­y framed by our private dipping pool.
 ??  ?? The beach at Bodyholida­y St. Lucia offered good swimming, relaxing and snorkeling.
The beach at Bodyholida­y St. Lucia offered good swimming, relaxing and snorkeling.

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