Philmont a hidden gem of a day trip
Gorgeous falls, 19th-century architecture, and a farm-to-table restaurant star
Ifirst came across the village of Philmont by accident, after Google Maps gave up trying to figure out where I was in Columbia County. A wrong turn off Route 23 in Claverack — all spacious farmland and wooded hills — had me driving through what looked like the set of a silent movie.
There I discovered historic railroad houses, beautifully preserved Victorian and Georgian Revival architecture, modern restaurants, and former industrial buildings, some transformed by adaptive-reuse projects, and others still vacant, their empty windows overlooking the rural streets like great unblinking eyes.
Once dubbed Factory Hill, Philmont, which is part of Claverack, was home to a pioneering hydroelectric project, a bustling railroad station, and a variety of mills, including those for wool processing, paper, and underwear manufacturing.
A series of fires leveled buildings during the 1800s and early 1900s. The village rebuilt, only to watch parts of itself get swept away during the New England Hurricane of 1938. As Philmont’s manufacturers folded or packed their bags for greener (read: cheaper) pastures to the south, a hush fell over the village.
In the late 1980s, a group of scrappy and enterprising locals embarked on new businesses and cultural preservation. The village today is growing, and offers plenty of options for a day of relaxed exploration.
Get the lay of the land
Kick off your village adventures with breakfast at the Philmont Cooperative ( 116 Main St.). The menu highlights local farms and kitchen producers, with selections that include wraps, sandwiches, and pastries. I’m not a coffee drinker, and I loved theirs — bold, smooth, and decidedly nonbitter.
Take a relaxed walking tour, starting at Maple Avenue,
north across Maple Terrace,
and down Prospect Street.
This U-shaped circuit offers prime opportunities for appreciating beautifully restored historic homes, most dating to the 19th century.
Nearly a straight shot in the opposite direction from the cooperative lies one of my favorite buildings in town. The circa-1870, 36,000-square-foot Summit Knitting Mill ( 27 Summit St.), located at the southwestern edge of Summit Lake, overlooks a stone dam. On its backside are the ruins of a picking house built from shale and brick. The building is in contract; this is strictly an ogledon’t-trespass experience.
Drive over to High Falls
Conservation Area ( 540 Roxbury Rd.), an unexpected gem among Columbia Land Conservancy’s 10 properties. While the trails aren’t difficult, they’re wonderfully quiet. Until, that is, you arrive at the spot where the Agawamuck Creek plunges 250 feet down into a gorge, over a series of cascading falls. The trail along the lower portion of the park takes you past a smaller waterfall.
While the three groomed trails at High Falls clock in at just over a mile, don’t rush the experience. You’ll want to savor the peaceful wooded sections, and spend time sitting or standing
in front of the falls, a singularly energizing experience.
Have lunch & walk the labyrinth
Stop for lunch at High Falls Pizzeria and Taphouse ( 94 Main St.). Its large menu provides a variety of pub favorites, from quesadillas to stacked burgers, Greek salad, stromboli, and pizza. I’m a fan of the craft pizzas, especially the Grandpa (a Margherita pizza) and the Mediterranean (Kalamata olives, spinach, tomatoes, feta and mozzarella).
Once the growing season begins, plan a stop at Threshold Farm ( 16 Summit St.). The team here has been using biodynamic methods since their founding in the late 1700s. Today, they grow mostly stone fruits and vegetables, including 18 varieties of apples, plus peaches, pears, and plums. Call in advance to let them know you’d like to visit.
McNan’s Variety Foods ( 100 Main St.), is a cheerful, oldtimey deli decorated with books, vintage signs, and vinyl records. It’s good for picking up prepared foods and tasty snacks to go. The pies are delicious, but the carrot cake, with its moist interior and mildly sweet cream
cheese frosting, is the standout.
Slow down with a visit to the Philmont Labyrinth. Located on the Village Green on Maple Avenue between Main and New Streets, it’s a 42-foot mosaic structure made of bluestone, grass, and white marble recycled from the historic Tea House at the 1820 Harder Mansion on Main Street. The opposite of High Falls’ vigor, walking the labyrinth’s maze-like paths inspires tranquility and reflection. Time your visit with the setting sun, as peach and cotton candy pink streak through the sky.
Enjoy cocktails and dinner
Tucked within the diminutive commercial district is Local 111 ( 111 Main St.) The remote location of the sophisticated eatery, which is housed in a repurposed service station, hasn’t hampered it from drawing diners from near and far since 2007.
There’s a reason Local 111 regularly tops regional and national best-of lists: they’re committed to quality, farm-to-table cuisine that highlights the rich bounty of the Hudson Valley. The restaurant is small — only 39 seats — but has a warm, community feeling. Bring your appetite for selections like clams with saffron and ’Nduja (an Italian sausage), served with squid ink focaccia, or raclette carrots served on a turnip “funnel cake” with pepitas and pickled vegetables. Dessert should not be missed.
If your visit to Philmont leaves you wanting more, round up some friends and rent the Vanderbilt Lakeside ( 161 Main St. ),a historic railroad house reimagined as a dining room, bar, and boutique inn. With its dark walls and vintage-meets-modern décor, it has a moody, upscale feel. The backyard opens onto scenic views of Summit Lake, an ideal spot for enjoying the sunrise.