STAR DISHES
From small plates at Daley's to sushi at War Tavern, much to enjoy
Spotlight: Beerand-burger deal Where: Troy Beer Garden, 2 King St., Troy; troybeergarden.com
Susie says: “An $18 build-it-your-way burger-and-beer deal that should grab your attention for its fair price and generous proportions. (Burgers are normally $16 sans beer.) A jumble of excellent, hand-cut shoestring fries joins a tasty 8-ounce Black Angus burger served pinkmiddled on a glossy brioche roll, with crisp, fresh lettuce, onion and tomato, and, in my guest’s case, sauteed mushrooms and onions for a dollar more. It’s available only on Tuesdays.”
Spotlight: Small plates Where: Daley’s on Yates, 10 Yates St., Schenectady; daleysonyates.com Susie says: With founding chef Elliott Vogel back in charge of the kitchen, “small plates are where Daley’s shines. Skewered Peruvian chicken (on the menu since opening) sport a vibrant cilantrolime squiggle. … Vogel’s mindset is in play in cured heirloom carrots over tahini-tossed pistachios, sesame and smoked raisins, with crisped carrot skins on top. … The crudo that arrives has scallops and black and pink radishes sliced in delicate, sheer rounds dotted with plump salmon roe, roasted celeriac and sesame-scattered cucumber twigs over a tamarind-lime vinaigrette.”
Spotlight: The Violet B. dessert Where: The Scarlet Knife, 195 Troy-Schenectady Road, Latham; scarletknife.com
Susie says: “The Violet B. — named for the character Violet Beauregarde — in ‘Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory’ is a shiny violet almond dacquoise cake filled with huckleberry jam, the sweetness of meringue offset by the tang of cream cheese mousse and subtle nuttiness of almond ice cream.”
Spotlight: Mohinga
Where: Shwe Burmese, 909 Broadway, Rensselaer; facebook.com/ people/Shwe-BurmeseRestaurant-Albany/100086982355880
Susie says: “Mohinga (phonetically spelled mote him khar on Shwe’s menu) is the national dish, a fish noodle soup with a skein of rice noodles twisted in lemongrass and ginger broth, the surface hidden under cilantro, lime wedges for a citrus hit and a half-boiled egg. You get shockingly crisp spoonfuls thanks to a jumble of toasted rice, peanuts and dried lentils or peas adding audible crunch to each soft bite. Mohinga is often made with catfish, but with fried tilapia on the menu as ‘Burmese fish and chips,’ soft submerged chunks of it soak up the ginger and garlic in this mohinga.”
Spotlight: Where:
Sushi
Albany War Room Tavern, 42 Eagle St., Albany; albanywarroom.com Susie says: “Sushi is arguably the biggest allure, with Yasuo Saso in person and now Paul Meng as his experienced sous. A slimline sushi menu is available at the downstairs bar, while the full array is upstairs. Options include a prixfixe ‘omakase’ menu ($84.99) with seared miso cod in homage to Nobu and carefully cross-hatched striped bass tataki with a restrained splash of ponzu. Nigiri and sashimi are arranged in order, starting with delicate white fish and moving on to fattier fish and tuna with tamago (egg) left, like dessert, for the end. You can also choose a la carte. A single uni nigiri (sea urchin, market priced when I got it at $6.78) is the best upstate bite I’ve had in a year.”