Albany Times Union

Updated take on a a chicken classic

- By Christian Vazquez

Roast chicken smells like home. It is the smell of a communal meal, of care and love that goes into thinking ahead and dry-brining a chicken, and of showing someone you're willing to put in a little effort on a sleepy Sunday.

Chicken fat rendering under high heat is, in and of itself, an olfactory experience - its savory aroma lingering in your kitchen long after you've finished the meal and collected the plates.

Above all else, roast chicken is the smell of something familiar.

This roast chicken is a basic recipe of my childhood - with a couple of tweaks. If you've had the pleasure of knowing and loving a Puerto Rican, you know we use adobo in everything. Any protein. Any vegetable. My dad even seasons his lasagna with it.

I share this affinity for the neon-yellow all-purpose seasoning, and I make my own blend. Not only does it use up a few spices you probably already have on hand, it can also help to avoid complicate­d brand politics, which has inspired many to make their own. Just don't forget one very important ingredient — MSG.

MSG is polarizing, but unless you have a very specific allergy, I promise it's okay to use in moderation. Mix a pinch of MSG in with your salt next time you're cooking and marvel at the umami X factor you never knew you were missing.

Another variation on my mother's recipe is that I spatchcock the chicken. I find this little bit of extra effort really helps the chicken to roast more evenly. Pro tip: Position the chicken's legs facing the back of the oven. It's hotter back there and it'll get the legs up to temperatur­e without overcookin­g the breasts.

The pan sauce I use is a twist on a mojo marinade. While the traditiona­l preparatio­n involves

marinating the entire chicken in a mixture of bitter orange citrus (or lime) juice, orange juice, olive oil and garlic, I like to add a couple of these ingredient­s halfway through roasting to take full advantage of the pan drippings, resulting in a bright sauce that fully showcases what this chicken is all about.

This straightfo­rward, pantry-friendly recipe is always in my back pocket. Once it's safe to gather indoors, make it for friends you're trying to impress. It's flexible. It's familiar. It's different. It smells incredible — like home, even.

 ?? Photo for The Washington Post by Justin Tsucalas ?? Adobo Spatchcock­ed Chicken.
Photo for The Washington Post by Justin Tsucalas Adobo Spatchcock­ed Chicken.

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