Albany Times Union

Yes, heaven is a deli

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Nominate us Best Sandwich Shop!

If you Google “Italian deli in Albany New York,” almost two dozen results turn up. But only one, to our knowledge, has drawn the favor of an Immortal Being.

“The Goddess of Fire wishes to report that heaven is actually located at 1197 Central Avenue, not far from the Moon and the Stars. Yes, heaven is a deli,” Karen K. of Albany writes in a five-star review. “The sandwiches are divine- prepared to order while you wait by a bunch of really nice cute guys gotta love that! Try the Italian Mix - spicy and rich…the deli has lots of dry beans and lentils, bins of olives, prepared salads and lovely imported cheeses. I always get my Parm there, grated, and they know to package up the rinds for me so I can use it in soups. Their house made summer sausage is fabulous, and only available for a short time - loaded with garlic - try some on the grill!”

You don’t need to be a deity to appreciate the wonders of M. Pellegrino Importing Company. Customer after customer explains what makes the place stand out: bread with just enough crunch to its crust, Parma Ham and Mortadella always sliced to perfection, subs laden with generous portions of Boars Head meats and cheeses.

Benny Anastasio, who purchased the deli and grocery from its founders the Pellegrino­s in 1990, hasn’t Googled it lately. He chuckles delightedl­y when he hears about the Fire Goddess. “I like that one,” he says. “No way do I have time to keep up with what people say about us online. We’re too busy just doing it.”

What they do is the fine art of Italian cuisine at reasonable prices, offering catering, take-out (besides the deli offerings there are dinners to go), fine imported and housemade specialty groceries and ingredient­s, and top-notch customer service.

Anastasio’s not shocked to hear that quite a few have also Yelped about the crew being exceptiona­lly easy on the eyes. “I have been told here and there that some of the guys are quote, eye candy, unquote,” he says.

But just being adorable would never cut it in a competitiv­e Capital District climate where subs are beloved and people make a quest of locating and relishing the highest expression of the art. To many, Pellegrino’s is the place. “Having scouted the area for the last 13 years, quality and consistenc­y rule here. I know, and those who know, know!!! All the extras add to a wonderful gem in the Capital District,” writes another reviewer.

Anastasio is especially touched to hear that, among the talk of mouthwater­ing housemade sausage “perfect” bread and fresh everything, Jeff K. of Brooklyn had judged M. Pellegrino by perhaps the ultimate standard. “Exactly like a good salumeria back home,” writes Jeff. “They even had Brooklyn Pastosa ravioli. You know it is good when you are on line with some Italian grandmothe­rs doing their Saturday shopping.”

“That’s beautiful,” says Anastasio. “There’s so many traditions that are fading. I’m glad we’re part of keeping real Italian alive around here.” 2578 Route 9, Malta, NY 12020 | 518-289-5340 1197 Central Ave., Albany, NY 12205 | 518-459-4472 449 N. Greenbush Rd., Rensselaer, NY 12144 | 518-283-2084 www.pellegrino­importing.com

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