Old favorite happily reborn in new spot
El Norteño still serves the same regional Mexican delights
Even in restaurants that have been with us for many years, change occurs when forces of nature intervene, whether accidents or landlords. El Norteño’s beloved original location was opened on Zuni in 1986 by a duo with the names Monica and Leopoldo, but was ravaged by fire some five years ago. Luckily, the reputation had enough strength for them to reopen at a new location, this time in the Heights on Wyoming, in the space formerly occupied by Le Café Miche.
As before, the kitchen talents show off a diverse selection of regional Mexican goodies, from mild fish tacos to tongue-tickling habanero-sauced shrimp. For now, enjoy the paper-thin chips with the dueling salsas, one chile-red and one avocado-green. The latter is no stiff guacamole, but rather a loose limey dip as antidote to every other salsa on the planet.
Substantial starters include quesadillas and flautas, but those in love with the refreshingly light must order the Ensalada de Nopalitos ($8.99). This has been a staple of my El Norteño meals for years, and it may always retain that status — whether scarfed entirely or saved for leftovers the next day. In fact, this salad would be the perfect meal with a topping of the Steak Tampiquena to make it a square meal.
Like a proper ethnic eatery, a few aficionados-only dishes are proudly featured; of these, my favorite is the Cabrito al Horno ($8.99) — stewed goat. Milder in flavor than you might imagine, this is the exotic cousin of a good chile-stewed carne adovada or asado. While you are considering the strange stuff, go all the way and try the Lengua ($8.99), deeply hued and tender beef tongue. Preparing a tongue in your own kitchen is quite an undertaking; let the experts handle it and enjoy this underappreciated treat.
Most folks that visit know and love the Pollo en Molé ($8.99), sweet chocolatey brown sauce flowing over shredded chicken, either from fork to mouth or bundled up in soft tortillas. Everyone I know loves this dish, even if I find it a bit sweet for a brown molé.
El Norteño’s Horchata is silky and sweet, served carafe-sized in a goblet. Wish as I may that the goblet’s other use — for the “three milks” cake ($5.99) — were as commendable.
Pastel de Tres Leches, when soaked for a day, is nearly falling apart and served gently by the slice. Here, a mass of cake cubes is doused in milk moments before serving — not recommended. The stiff and eggy Flan ($4.99), on the other hand, is generous on both portion and flavor.
Have you ever loved El Norteño? Everything that has proven tasty over the years is still cooking in the new kitchen, ready for your visit. With only a few stumbles, the menu is a solid exploration of Mexican cuisine. If you have heard recommendations but have yet to make the trip, the same thing applies — head up to the Heights and taste what has been within your reach for over two decades.
Look for a second location farther up on Wyoming near Montgomery this fall.