Exotic addition
Small eatery brings authentic Vietnamese fare to Downtown
Although new to the neighborhood, Kyana’s Kitchen Vietnamese Cuisine is already permeated with the complex anise aroma of Vietnamese cooking. The moment you cross the threshold of the unvarnished Downtown café is filled with promise — of long-simmered pho, fresh spring rolls and bánh mì. Here the vivacious Kyana darts between kitchen and front of the house like a hummingbird, bringing the panoply of authentic Vietnamese flavor to life and placing it before you.
In Seattle, Denver or any other reasonable city’s downtown, you could expect to find dozens of inexpensive, unpretentious ethnic eateries like Kyana’s. But in Albuquerque, where many restaurants have struggled to survive Downtown, Kyana’s is something special, adding an exotic flower to the small bouquet of dining options.
Judging from a dinner crowd on a recent evening, Kyana’s has already been discovered by hipsters, millennials, gymgoers and others unafraid to walk the streets after dark. You can be as comfortable there dining with a crowd of friends as when you are solitary with a book as your companion.
While I would not presume to rank the quality of pho among the many places in the city that serve the traditional noodle-filled broth, Kyana’s version may be
judged on its merits as sweet and deep, with rich flavor achieved by lengthy patient simmering. The No. 1 Special Combo ($8.50) — containing steak, flank, brisket and more — is expertly prepared and more than enough to make a hearty and delicious meal. Although not on the menu of eight soup varieties, a vegetarian version of pho is served on request.
Spring rolls (two for $4) are always a good way to begin. Here the barbecue version is especially appetizing, but someone forgot the fresh mint that makes the flavor pop.
The No. 21 rice with spicy chicken lemon grass ($7.75) was infused with subtle flavor. The menu is loaded with both rice and noodle dishes embellished with a rainbow of combinations of barbecue pork, veggies, shrimp, egg cake and more, in the $8-$10 range. A lively, abundant choice of stir-fries may be ordered, but the menu mixes “hot pots” with the listings, so ask the good-natured waiter to clarify if necessary.
Vegetarians will delight in the veggie hot pot, not on the menu, but loaded with a steamy delectable mixture of tofu, mushrooms and lemon grass.
Now let’s get to the classic — the bánh mì sandwich. Kyana makes her own pâté. I am not capable of judging “the best,” even if I sampled every bánh mì in the city. However, this version is very satisfying, a rounded and spicy flavor festival, with layers of pâté, ham and roasted ground pork on a fresh roll that wants to crumble in your hands, slathered with mayonnaise and butter, then amplified with fresh cucumber, carrots, daikon and cilantro. At $8, it qualifies as a bargain lunch or late-night snack, best enjoyed with a potent sweet Vietnamese coffee ($2.50). If you crave more heat on your sandwich, there’s a jar of Kyana’s housemade red chile sauce on the table. Help yourself.