Albuquerque Journal

Summer dress has sleeves, or not

- Vicki Farmer Ellis

Dear Vicki: I would like you to find a summer dress pattern for me to wear on vacation. I look best with sleeves, but sleeveless is not a dealbreake­r. But I would like something with a little pizzazz. Thanks for your help. — Monica W.

Dear Monica: I found Burda 2933 for you. It has both sleeves and sleeveless, and also short and long views. It just looks like fun, and a lightweigh­t summery fabric will be just right. I particular­ly think a rayon challis would be great.

A good question to my mother:

Dear Eunice Farmer: When I look at readymade clothes I see facings at the neck and armholes, but patterns often just have you turn back the edges or sew bias trim to finish. Why the difference? — Martine C.

Dear Martine: The quality of the clothing you are examining is the reason for the facings. Sometimes pattern companies believe we just want fast and easy, but I think many of us aspire to do better.

I want to make clothing that I could never afford to buy, so I look for details that take time but look expensive and beautiful. And it goes without saying that I want my sewing to be special, not especially fast. My time is valuable, and I want to be very proud of what I have made.

That being said, sometimes a narrow beautiful Hong Kong edge is just the thing. So just be sure the treatment you choose is the look you want.

Dear Vicki: Can I use the selvage of the fabric for straight edges of my pattern pieces? It sure would save time. Thanks. — Kathryn O.

Dear Kathryn: The selvage is always woven somewhat tighter than the yard goods; therefore, it can cause the garment or project to now hang incorrectl­y or actually not fit together. So don’t use it. An exception would be waistbands, which we usually would like to be extremely stable and firm.

Each week I share a reader’s tip and thank him or her with a set of 100 fine English hand-sewing needles from John James. This week the tip is from Gay Adams, of Norfolk, Va. Gay writes:

“My tip is to help with waistbands on pants that are a little too full and gape at the back. If they’re only a little too big, I have found that I can add belt loops — one on either side of the center back loop. I also topstitch around the top of the pants, maybe ¼ inch, so that the belt can’t ride up over the top of the waistband.” Send tips and questions to Vicki Farmer Ellis, P.O. Box 220463, St. Louis, MO 63122, or email vickifarme­rellis@swbell.net.

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