Say ‘cheese’! Book leaves few holes in story
Encyclopedia covers history and culture
MONTPELIER, Vt. — Cheese is far more than something slapped on a sandwich or sprinkled on top of a pizza, according to a new reference book edited by a Vermont professor.
The more than 850 entries in “The Oxford Companion to Cheese,” from Oxford University Press, cover ancient and modern cheese-making traditions, varieties worldwide, and cultural and historical influences from British comedy troupe Monty Python’s “The Cheese Shop” sketch to cheese shops, museums and even cheese tattoos.
Editor Catherine Donnelly, a University of Vermont nutrition and food science professor and former co-director of the Vermont Institute of Artisan Cheese, acknowledged that while the intention was to produce the most comprehensive reference book on cheese, the editors had to be selective.
As a result, the book isn’t an index of cheese makers, cheese shops and cheese varieties, of which there are 1,400 worldwide. (The book covers 244.)
Take Robiola di Roccaverano, for example. It’s a small, round Italian cheese produced from goat’s milk, or at least half from goat’s milk, the rest being ewe’s or cow’s milk or a combination.
There’s also lor, a traditional Iranian cheese; and laguiole, “a cylindrical uncooked, pressed cheese weighing as much as 110 pounds” that dates to the 12th century.
There are also entries on cows, sheep and goats, and even yak and reindeer, whose milk is used to make cheese; cheese cuisine from fondue to poutine; the science involved in cheese making; historical references; and cultural influences such as cheese-related tattoos.
(The most popular tattoo to signify a cheesemonger’s or aficionado’s commitment to cheese, according to the book, is an image of a wedge of hard cheese, sometimes with blue veins or Swiss cheese style “eyes” in it.)
“‘The Oxford Companion to Cheese’ is a great addition to an ever-growing body of cheese knowledge. Its scope is wide, and yet it achieves this breadth while still providing the level of detail and background information needed to advance readers’ understanding and knowledge,” said Nora Weiser, executive director of the American Cheese Society.
“The Oxford Companion to Cheese” sells for $65.