Albuquerque Journal

FAITH AND FEAR

Being Christian now in the Mideast: Voices from a challengin­g region

- BY MOLLY HENNESSY-FISKE, NABIH BULOS, JOSHUA MITNICKAND AND RAMIN MOSTAGHIM

CAIRO — Pope Francis boosted the spirits of Christians throughout the Middle East in April when he paid a two-day visit to Cairo, the first visit by a pontiff to Egypt in 17 years. But the pope’s visit did not change a harsh reality: Christians

Near Bethlehem: ‘A witness to the lord’

Buses rumbled past Rafat Houary’s stone villa ferrying a stream of tourists to the Shepherds Field Chapel, where Catholic tradition holds the birth of Jesus was first announced.

Standing on his balcony, the 43-yearold carpenter and fledgling craft beer brew master pointed out the hotels and restaurant­s on the horizon that had popped up around the holy site in the last few years as tourism to Bethlehem has picked up. Not long ago, the street was a war zone.

At the height of the Palestinia­n uprising at the beginning of the 2000s, the road became a battlefiel­d for the Israeli army and Palestinia­n militants. Israeli tanks patrolled to enforce a curfew as the military scoured the town for gunmen and potential bombers. Many Christians from Bethlehem and suburban villages moved abroad.

“I know 100 families that moved,” said Houary. “They were looking for a better life. They were looking for freedom. Maybe if I had a family and children at the time, I would have thought about moving.”

But Houary stayed and helped build a new Bethlehem congregati­on. When he bows his head in prayer at the Immanuel Evangelica­l Church in Beit Sahur, he faces a colonnade-adorned altar that he erected.

Israel built fences behind his house separating him from his family-owned property. Fellow congregant­s fret about Islamic militancy spreading to the West Bank. But Houary remains optimistic. Christians, though a diminished minority in the Holy Land, still have a mission to fulfill, he said.

“We are a witness to the Lord in this city. So, we have to be here,” he said. throughout the region find themselves under threat from political repression and violent attacks.

In Egypt, Coptic Christians have been chased from their homes, their churches and a monastery attacked. In Iraq, Assyrians have been displaced from villages, whole neighborho­ods and business districts gutted by Islamic State. In the West Bank, Iran and Lebanon, Christians have grown accustomed to

Facing Islamic State in northern Iraq

He once owned a house, a hotel, a casino, a herd of cattle and a farm in the Christian city of Qaraqosh east of Mosul, home to 50,000. Then Islamic State arrived.

Militants forced Tawfiq Abosh Jabu Sakar and most of his neighbors from their homes. They took his hundred head of cattle, his chicken coops, even his irrigation pipes. Then they burned his home and business.

“They want to make us all refugees,” said Sakar, 67, as he flipped through photos of his stolen cows.

Iraqi forces freed the area last fall, but many displaced families refused to return. The government had yet to restore running water and electricit­y. A Christian militia was patrolling the streets, but they feared militants still lurked nearby.

Two months ago, Sakar decided to move back.

Standing in the charred remains of his threestory home, Sakar picked up a piece of plaster and threw it at the cracked ceiling in frustratio­n.

“You can’t use this house anymore. What did I do to deserve this?” he said. celebratin­g under guard.

“Some of the oldest Christian communitie­s in the world are disappeari­ng in the very lands where their faith was born and first took root,” concluded a Center for American Progress report on the plight of Christians in the Middle East.

The Middle East-North Africa area has the highest concentrat­ion of Muslims of any region of the world: 93 percent of its

Displaced In Iraq

The three women chopped walnuts in the kitchenett­e of their two-room trailer, then poured them into a bowl along with dried coconut. Now, as children hovered, the bakers were rolling out and cutting sweet dough to make an Easter Iraqi favorite: klecha cookies.

Islamic State militants forced the trio of Assyrians from their Christian hometown of Qaraqosh two years ago. Suad Rahim and daughters Iman, 30, and Fata, 27, had expected to stay at the trailer park in the town of Irbil for a few months. But they can’t imagine returning home.

Most of the houses and storefront­s sit empty. Militias police the area, and many citizens fear the armed groups have been infiltrate­d by Islamic State.

“In the night, it’s very scary,” said Rahim, 50. “We don’t know who is who.”

So her family of eight is still sharing a trailer, hoping to move to a house elsewhere in the Kurdish region of Iraq, or overseas.

“If they try to push us back there, we’re going to Europe,” Rahim said. more than 340 million inhabitant­s.

Christians in the region face not only the threat of Islamist violence, but subtler challenges. Many wind up leaving because they can’t find jobs and face social discrimina­tion. Countries such as Saudi Arabia make it difficult for Christians to practice their faiths openly.

We talked to Christians across the region, from Egypt to Iran.

Praying that terrorists in Cairo ‘leave us alone’

Vivian Aziz Shehata Shenoudah always covers her head when she goes out in Cairo. She calls it her “precaution.” The Coptic woman said she has been harassed by men, women, even children on the street for being Christian, for her gold crosses, dyed blond hair and makeup.

She has not seen her brother in San Diego in a decade. He no longer feels safe visiting Shenoudah. Her apartment is in the Abbasiya neighborho­od, steps from her church, St. Mark’s. A suicide bomber attacked in December, killing 30 worshipers.

In late April, the chapels she normally attends were packed not just with Egyptians, but also with Christian refugees from Ethiopia, Somalia and Sudan.

Three days a week, Shenoudah also attends services at Botroseya church, in the women’s area where the bomb detonated and marble columns are still pitted from the explosion. In a nearby hall, tour guides display remnants of the attack now considered relics and preserved under glass: bloodied pews, victims’ bloodstain­ed heels, handbags and hair clippings.

Shenoudah blames poverty and wealthy Persian Gulf countries for stoking Muslim extremism.

“I always pray that they change their minds to peace and that they leave us alone,” she said.

‘This is the grave of the martyrs’

The bombing on Palm Sunday shook St. George’s Church in Tanta, Egypt.

“This is the grave of the martyrs,” says the sign next to the church where 28 who came to worship on Palm Sunday were killed by an Islamic State suicide bomber. They had their funerals there the same night.

Many worshipers still wear black, out of respect for friends and family who were killed. The victims’ names are listed on a golden plaque some touch as they pass, hoping for a blessing.

Mina Magdi, 12, was at church the day of the bombing, along with friend Yousef Mina, 11.

“I saw bodies split in two,” Yousef said as he stood before a grave.

Other children begged their parents not to come to church, afraid of another attack. But Yousef and his friend were upbeat, despite the bloodshed they had seen here. They said they were not scared.

In Iran, Armenians mark genocide

Asign spanning St. Sarkis Armenian Church in Tehran last week commemorat­ed the genocide of the Armenian people by the “Ottoman Turkish state.”

At a nearby grocery store, owner Gregory Davoud Daavetian, an Armenian Christian, said he applauded the pope’s visit to the Middle East.

The Armenian community in Iran is one of the world’s oldest and largest, and it enjoys official recognitio­n in the country.

The Iranian government places strict limits on proselytiz­ing among evangelica­l Christians. But the Armenians are generally free to practice their religion.

“Any attempt to reduce violence in the region is appreciate­d,” Daavetian said. “I was born in Iran, I am Iranian Christian and Iran is my country.

 ?? MOLLY HENNESSY-FISKE/LOS ANGELES TIMES/TNS ?? Cairo’s St. Mark’s Cathedral prepares to host Pope Francis and the head of Egypt’s Coptic Church, Pope Tawadros II on April 27, 2017.
MOLLY HENNESSY-FISKE/LOS ANGELES TIMES/TNS Cairo’s St. Mark’s Cathedral prepares to host Pope Francis and the head of Egypt’s Coptic Church, Pope Tawadros II on April 27, 2017.
 ??  ?? Soldiers sign a cross on their chest during Easter Mass at the Mar Yohanna Church (also known as the Saint John Church) in Qaraqosh, Iraq, on April 16, 2017.
Soldiers sign a cross on their chest during Easter Mass at the Mar Yohanna Church (also known as the Saint John Church) in Qaraqosh, Iraq, on April 16, 2017.
 ?? MARCUS YAM/LOS ANGELES TIMES/TNS ?? Suad Rahim, center, makes klecha holiday cookies with her family at a Christian refugee camp in the Ainkawa neighborho­od of Erbil, Iraq, on April 12, 2017.
MARCUS YAM/LOS ANGELES TIMES/TNS Suad Rahim, center, makes klecha holiday cookies with her family at a Christian refugee camp in the Ainkawa neighborho­od of Erbil, Iraq, on April 12, 2017.
 ?? MOLLY HENNESSY-FISKE/LOS ANGELES TIMES/TNS ?? Workers repair St. George Church in Tanta, Egypt, after a Palm Sunday bombing killed 28 people.
MOLLY HENNESSY-FISKE/LOS ANGELES TIMES/TNS Workers repair St. George Church in Tanta, Egypt, after a Palm Sunday bombing killed 28 people.

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