Deadhead, fertilize to keep potted annuals blooming
Q: The pots of annual flowers I purchased to decorate for the Memorial Day holiday are still looking pretty good! Even on Flag Day, they added patriotic color to our patio! In order to keep them blooming for the Fourth of July party, what do I need to do so they stay flowering for me? — P.H., Albuquerque
A: It’s a nifty thing that we have flowers available that’ll decorate wearing theme colors, huh?
The most important thing I’d suggest is keeping the annuals deadheaded. That means removing the blooms that are finished, or spent. But it’s not just the bloom that need be gleaned away. You need to be sure to remove the whole stem that supported the bloom, too. If you don’t snip off the whole system that supported the bloom the plant will spend energy on that deadheaded stem — wasting energy.
Keep a clean, sharp set of scissors handy and every fourth to fifth day snip away the spent flowers to convince your plantings they want to make more bloom. Then make sure the pots stay adequately watered. Don’t keep them soggy, for sure, but if you allow them to dry too much that could cause irreparable damage that’d take weeks to recover from. Remember, a stressed plant, especially annuals, will sacrifice or not produce blooms in order to stay alive.
Since the pots were newly purchased the soil should be fairly fertile, but that said the annuals are using all the nutrients they can right now. A fertilizer application designed to feed blooming plants wouldn’t hurt in the least. Make sure the pots have been watered with plain water before you apply any fertilizer and follow the label application directions so the roots aren’t scalded. Burnt roots can’t support a healthy plant at all.
With your continued care these colorful pots can and should continue to color your world all season long.
Q: We’re going to put sod down in the backyard. We’re confused about adding “organics” to the soil beforehand. What are we looking for? And any guidance on the process of laying sod would be appreciated! — N.G., West Side
A: Organics used this way is meant to guide you to making healthier soil. Soil that’ll be capable of storing water and oxygen, supporting healthy root systems and making a home for microbes and healthy bacteria that create soil health.
Products you’re looking for are usually sold in cubic foot or larger packages and include compost, peat moss, heat-treated manure and finely milled bark. The more you add to your existing soil the easier it’ll be for whatever you plant. I was taught that at a minimum, you want to incorporate 4 cubic feet of stuff to every 100 square foot of area you’re improving. And that is a bare minimum ratio especially to amend this West Side soil. This is one time when adding more is better.
First, you’ll want to disc or till the space you’re planting to a minimum depth of 10 inches. Remove any sticks, old root clumps or large rocks that are exposed now. Next, spread your myriad of organics evenly on top of the turned area. Then till that space again working your organics into the soil. Rake the area smooth then thoroughly dampen the area. That’ll settle your space without compacting it too much. It’s a quite a bit of work to prepare but if you don’t work the soil the sod won’t root out and a shallowly rooted lawn is nothing but trouble. Just as you get ready to lay your sod, using a stiffly tined rake, give the area a going over to gently rough up the surface. That makes it easier for the sod bottom to grab the earth. As each roll is set walk on it to cement it to the surface. Also, be sure to lay each roll as close as humanly possible to the other. No gaps, please. Gaps equal trouble later on. Finally, water. You are going to keep your newly sodded area watered every day for perhaps two weeks. If it stays hot you might need to water twice a day. It can’t dry out during this rooting in period even a smidgen.
It’s a lot of work to properly prepare for and lay sod but done with care and no scrimping on the organics you can succeed. Happy Digging In!