Scalo offers fine Italian dining at unpretentious prices
Scalo offers fine Italian dining at unpretentious prices
“Fine dining on Central Avenue” is a phrase one does not expect to say often, but that’s exactly what Scalo Northern Italian Grill is: a semiformal (or semicasual?) restaurant disguised as a street cafe just a stone’s throw from the University of New Mexico campus.
Unlike Antiquity or The Crown Room, you don’t need to dress up for Scalo, and you don’t need to make reservations — though you probably should on weekends and holidays. And unlike typical fine dining, Scalo isn’t stuffy or even particularly expensive.
The focus is on the food.
And the food is undeniably amazing, featuring homemade pastas and local ingredients made in traditional Tuscan style.
On a recent visit, I was most surprised by the bruschetta appetizer ($9), wholly unlike traditional bruschetta and against which I will now judge every other bruschetta: Giant slices of Italian bread are grilled over an open flame, but instead of piling tomatoes and basil on top, Scalo smears fine ricotta cheese across a plate, then sprinkles it with extra-virgin olive oil, rosemary, and local honey.
Describing the taste of this combination may be impossible: First, the familiar taste of cheese arrives; then, the woody and aromatic rosemary registers; but then, a strong sweetness overtakes the savory and finishes with a distinct, if indescribable, flavor. Think cream cheese, only better.
It’s heavy, not a light appetizer, but it may be the best part of the meal. Instead of saving room for desert, be sure to save room for the appetizer.
Nor did the main course disappoint. For the sake of tradition and simplicity, I opted for one of the most popular pasta dishes in America: “fettuccini al pollo,” or chicken fettuccini ($13), which features freshly made ribbon noodles smothered in creamy Parmesan sauce with chunks of sautéed white chicken meat, a few tender sun-dried tomatoes, and Italian herbs.
It was delicious and hearty and a slightly larger portion than is suitable for a single sitting. My only complaint — or compliment, depending on your perspective — was a lack of salt. That’s easily
remedied, but in the spirit of simplicity and health, I chose not to. Overall, it was a near-perfect creamy and cheesy pasta dish.
Some other highlights of Scalo:
BLOODY MARY BAR: On weekends, you can create a custom bloody mary, salad bar-style. Garnish your cocktail with chicken wings, olives, fruit, veggies, even bacon or seafood. (The bartender will handle the pour; the rest is up to you.)
WINE CELLAR:
Scalo has a wine list worthy of a fine Italian restaurant, and its “wine and dine” menu pairs four courses with just the right wine (for $29.50 per person; reservations are recommended). The restaurant has highend wines for special occasions, but the bulk of the wine menu is reasonably priced.
LOCATION: Despite construction on Central, parking isn’t much of an issue. A private lot at Scalo, shared with a few other businesses, offers plenty of free parking. If it’s full, street parking is probably available nearby.
SERVICE: Despite the white-tablecloth ambiance, the wait staff is unexpectedly warm and amiable.
OPTIONS: Diners can choose the main dining
room, a covered outdoor patio, the casual bar, or a formal upstairs dining room with more privacy. Larger parties can easily be accommodated, and couples on dates will find the perfect intimate spot in one of the four areas.
Scalo is quintessential Nob Hill dining: original, not too formal, reasonably priced and accessible to everyone (though families with small children may not feel entirely embraced). It’s also one of the rare dining establishments in Albuquerque without a glut of green chile on the menu or loud, colorful paintings on the wall.
That alone — along with the bruschetta — makes Scalo well worth a visit.