Authentically handmade? How to know amid mass production
Craftspeople in some of the poorest places on Earth are making unexpected inroads into the U.S. retail market, expanding their clientele beyond museum shops and craft markets. A trend that started decades ago with the rise of fair trade-minded entrepreneurs has accelerated as growing international tourism creates demand for cultural products. Exports of artistic crafts from developing countries surged from $9 billion in 2002 to $23 billion in 2011, according to the most recent UNESCO report on the global creative economy.
Exotic craftwork has piqued the interest of major fashion and home decor retailers striving to compete in the age of Amazon. Many are betting craftsmanship rooted in ancient traditions, combined with stories of social impact on artisan communities, will lure shoppers increasingly concerned about where and how products are made.
In an era of mass production and online shopping, here is some guidance for buying handmade.
KNOW HOW “FAIR TRADE” RELATES TO HANDICRAFTS
There is no “fair trade” certification process for handicrafts as a category because the
production processes vary widely. Organizations like Fair Trade U.S.A. certify some products that may be handcrafted, such as clothing and rugs. But safety and labor standards used for those items might be irrelevant for an individual basket weaver in a rural village.
More commonly, some retailers will label a handcrafted product as fair trade because it is sourced from a member of an organization
such as the Fair Trade Federation.
Macy’s partners with Global Goods Partners, a Fair Trade Federation member that sells crafts online and to retailers nationwide. Target last spring offered specially designed crafts from India, Kenya, Ecuador and Guatemala through a partnership with Accompany, an online venture does not belong to any fair trade organization but works with many enterprises that are.
LOOK FOR THE STORY BEHIND THE BEAUTY
How to you know if something is truly handmade? Some retailers label products handcrafted based on UNESCO’s definition, which states that the “manual contribution of the artisan” must be “the most substantial component of the finished product.” If there is no label, look for the story of the artisan who made the product.
Novica, a company partnered with National Geographic, prides itself on its in-depth personal and some major brands have made storytelling a central part of their marketing effort, trying to stand out in the increasingly crowded universe of online shopping.
At boutiques, ask what is known about the maker of a product sold as handcrafted.
Stories behind handmade crafts don’t always involve just one maker, or even just one country, in an age when artisans are striving to adapt to contemporary tastes and expectations for production and delivery.
MODERN DEAL SEEKING FOR HANDMADE
Handicrafts might come at a premium in the U.S. because of shipping costs but with more retailers getting in the game it is possible to shop around, compare prices and look for deals.
Exploring online selections is a good way to get an idea of the value of traditional crafts. Find a list of reputable vendors at Accompany’s website or among the members of the Artisan Alliance, an initiative of the Aspen Institute to support artisan enterprise.
Novica has an extensive loyalty program that includes rewards, lower shipping costs for frequent buyers and regular updates on special sales. Customers can also put a favorite artisan on a “watchlist” to stay updated on new offers and deals on particular items.