Albuquerque Journal

Sweet, tangy salmon

Fresh fish starts with a quick stovetop sear, finishes in oven

- BY KATIE WORKMAN

A good piece of fish needs very little to make it perfect. Here, the brisk, anisey-tangy flavor of tarragon vinaigrett­e is a wonderful complement to the lushness of salmon filets.

If you start with excellent salmon and super-fresh herbs, and don’t overcook the fish, you cannot mess this up. It’s a less-is-more dish.

The mix of orange and lemon juices in the vinaigrett­e gives a nice balance of sweetness and tanginess. If you are in possession of a Meyer lemon, you could use 3 tablespoon­s of that juice in place of the mix, and get similar results. Not exactly the same, but something else wonderful.

I love starting fish in a pan (make sure your fish is fairly thick, about 1-inch or even thicker) and then transferri­ng it to a stove to finish cooking. Here are the three main reasons why:

1) You can use the oven to cook something else to go with the fish, whether it’s roasted potatoes or other vegetables.

2) If you are cooking the fish with the skin on, you can get that pan screaming hot before you add the fish, and when the skin hits the pan it starts to crisp up immediatel­y. It then stays crisp and delicious and great to eat. Soft fish skin: not good. Crisp fish skin: a fabulous counterpoi­nt to a well-cooked, soft, delicate fish.

3) Perhaps best of all: You don’t have to flip the fish, which even for the most confident and experience­d cooks doesn’t always end well.

Salmon is available everywhere because it’s so good and so popular. If you can get wild Alaskan salmon, do yourself (and the environmen­t) a favor and buy it. It has a more pronounced flavor than farm-raised does, so you’re getting the full salmon experience.

SALMON WITH TARRAGON VINAIGRETT­E Serves 4

FOR THE SALMON: 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for brushing

4 (6-ounce) fillets of salmon, 1-inch thick, skin on if desired

Salt and pepper to taste

FOR THE TARRAGON VINAIGRETT­E:

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoon­s fresh orange juice 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoon­s minced fresh tarragon leaves 2 tablespoon­s minced shallots 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Coarse or kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Heat a heavy, ovenproof skillet over high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.

Brush some olive oil over each piece of salmon, and season with salt and pepper. Add the salmon to the pan, skin side down (if relevant). Allow to sear, without moving, in the pan for about 3 minutes. Transfer to the oven and roast for 5 to 8 minutes, until done to your liking.

While the salmon is cooking, in a small container combine the ¼ cup olive oil, orange juice, lemon juice, tarragon, shallots, Dijon mustard, and salt and pepper. Shake to combine.

Transfer the fish to a serving platter or individual plates. Shake the vinaigrett­e to remix it, and then pour it over the fish. Serve hot or warm.

PER SERVING: 285 calories; 128 calories from fat; 14 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 109 mg cholestero­l; 605 mg sodium; 2 g carbohydra­te; 0 g fiber; X g sugar; 37 g protein.

 ?? ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? A brisk tarragon vinaigrett­e complement­s lush salmon.
ASSOCIATED PRESS A brisk tarragon vinaigrett­e complement­s lush salmon.

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