Albuquerque Journal

No filter needed

A snapshot of culture, Cuba is a photograph­er’s dream

- STORY AND PHOTOS BY ROBERTO E. ROSALES OF THE JOURNAL

Iwas tired of saying I want to go to Cuba, so I did. Early this year, I crossed the Mexican border and flew out of Ciudad Juárez — mainly to avoid all the fragile formalitie­s required by the U.S. State Department.

From there, I flew to Mexico City and caught a flight to Havana.

By 4:30 p.m., a 6-foot-3 major league prospect lookalike called my name as I stepped out of a taxi in a neighborho­od just west of Old Havana between the world-famous Malecon and the local university. To save money during my visit, I stayed in a casa

particular, Cuba’s version of Airbnb, and I recommend them, because they cost $15 to $25 per night.

When you travel to Cuba, you need to know that the term “winging it” describes your daily excursions. Take plenty of cash, because credit cards from U.S. banks will not do you any good.

I wanted to photograph and hear the symphony of conversati­ons and music reverberat­ing off the narrow-walled streets plastered with stencils of Fidel Castro and Che Guevara.

Minimalism rules in Havana; the less you bring,

the more you notice. Switch your brain to “airplane mode,” because this country is all social media without the apps.

Walking the streets at 5 mph is what this country requires.

The city and streets are photograph­ic eye candy. No filter needed here; otherwise, it would be an insult to your inner adventurer.

This country is culturally intoxicati­ng and symphonic. Ask any Cuban about tourists, and they all say, “We all love all tourists, but we miss the American.”

Soon after inhaling all the diesel fumes I could handle, it was time to visit tobacco country, specifical­ly in Viñales, in the southwest area of the island.

This town is tucked away between bare cliffs and organic farms. Sprinkle in some conversati­ons with Don Tony, my host, who insisted I try his rum and cigars. The first night, we talked about the eight days of national mourning after Castro’s death. Talk to any Cuban, and the conversati­on soon navigates toward politics and history.

You might want to brush up on Cuban history if you stay in any casa particular. Politics and history tend to creep up on you like the high tide while sitting on a concrete wall at the Malecon.

In between Viñales and Havana, I visited Trinidad, in the country’s central region. It’s a spectacula­r place to see, but if you want to avoid tourists, don’t go there. The appealing cobbleston­e streets draw the masses, but it’s so remote visitors quickly begin staring at their cellphones in search of a glimpse of the outside world.

Many consider Cuba to be one of the safest places on earth. Police officers stand around every corner. I never saw law enforcemen­t officials questionin­g anyone, let alone a car accident.

I grew up in El Salvador until I turned 11. I immigrated to the U.S. due to the civil war in the ’80s. So going to Cuba felt as if I were walking through my old neighborho­od. The smells, the cars, the architectu­re — they were still there. It called me like my best friend Fausto, but this was Cuba, the country that tricks your mind into believing time travel is possible.

 ??  ?? A view of the Capitol building from a modern hotel in Havana.
A view of the Capitol building from a modern hotel in Havana.
 ??  ?? A classic vehicle travels down the world-famous Malecon in Havana.
A classic vehicle travels down the world-famous Malecon in Havana.
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 ??  ?? Boxing practice at the Rafael Trejo boxing gym in old Havana. High school students during an afternoon volleyball practice in old Havana.
Boxing practice at the Rafael Trejo boxing gym in old Havana. High school students during an afternoon volleyball practice in old Havana.
 ??  ?? A tobacco farmer lights up a cigar with tobacco grown on his organic farm in Viñales, Cuba. His tobacco fields produce the leaves used to roll Cohiba cigars, perhaps the world’s best-known brand.
A tobacco farmer lights up a cigar with tobacco grown on his organic farm in Viñales, Cuba. His tobacco fields produce the leaves used to roll Cohiba cigars, perhaps the world’s best-known brand.

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