Albuquerque Journal

Jinja Bistro offers creative blend of Asian, Polynesian cuisine

Jinja Bistro offers creative blend of Asian, Polynesian cuisine

- BY JASON K. WATKINS FOR THE JOURNAL

The shaking beef at Jinja Bistro in the Northeast Heights is just memorable enough to help you forget about the restaurant’s minor shortcomin­gs. “Shortcomin­gs” might be too strong a word. “Annoyances” is probably better.

This fancy Asian joint with two locations in Albuquerqu­e and one in Santa Fe fuses Asian and Polynesian cuisine, but it generally sticks to the familiarit­y of a Chinese menu, with a few creative exceptions.

The shaking beef is a bit of a crossover sensation, part Asian and part Hawaiian but not entirely exotic. Chunks of beef tenderloin are marinated in lime and chile, then seared in a wok and cooked to order. The beef is prime, and the preparatio­n couldn’t be better. The meat explodes with flavor.

The minor annoyance is that, at $13.49 for the small portion, you get about 6 total ounces of steak.

Still, lime as a meat marinade is a wholly underrated idea, and the shaking beef was, well, quivering with flavor. Sweet, citrusy, a little bit spicy.

Fresh white rice flavored with jasmine is served on the side, along with fresh spinach and onions sautéed to a golden brown. The plate packs some great flavor, but the smaller portion might leave you hungry for more.

The Hong Kong chicken, $12.99 for the small portion, is Jinja’s equivalent of sweet and sour chicken, and it was good. It didn’t

 ??  ??
 ?? JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL ?? Jinja Bistro’s shaking beef contains tenderloin that is marinated in lime and chile, then seared in a wok and cooked to order.
JASON K. WATKINS/FOR THE JOURNAL Jinja Bistro’s shaking beef contains tenderloin that is marinated in lime and chile, then seared in a wok and cooked to order.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States