Pot of goodness
Autumn’s arrival means it’s time for slow-simmered foods
Inever want summer to end, so I look on the bright side: Autumn weather practically begs for slowsimmered foods. Yum.
Beans, for example. Beans prove an excellent source of lean, inexpensive protein. Their versatility and adaptability means they can play prominently in maindish salads, creamy soups and hearty stews. They pair terrifically as rustic side dishes to our fall grilling and roasting recipes.
Canned beans top my list of great convenience foods. They save the day for many a meal. But I posit that cooler days prove a perfect time to master cooking dried beans.
First, know that all dried beans are not created equal. The fresher the dried bean, the more flavor it will have and the less time it will take to cook to perfect tenderness.
I buy beans in stores that sell a lot of them — black and pinto beans from a bustling Hispanic market are far more likely to be fresher than the beat-up, plastic-bagged beans sold on the bottom shelf of the local supermarket. I also buy beans at specialty stores so I can experiment with variety.
No matter where you procure dried beans, always rinse them well and pick through them carefully for stones. Soaking is really up to you. They certainly cook faster if soaked. Many older recipes instruct us to discard the soaking water to prevent gas. Current thinking advises us to retain the soaking water lest we discard vitamins and flavor. When the beans have a luscious dark color, such as black and red beans, I always cook them in the soaking water for maximum color retention. (Note that for less bitterness, I do recommend discarding the soaking water when cooking dried garbanzo beans.)
In the end, cooking dried beans proves easy — they simply need water and time to soften into goodness.
When the beans are cooked, the fun begins. Beans take to seasonings like ducks to water. Just know that it’s best to add the seasonings after the beans are soft; some acids and salt can interfere with the softening process.
Bean cooking liquid proves a useful commodity. It can enrich soups and stand in for water when cooking rice and other grains.
These days, I’m crazy for beans and greens — slow-simmered, meltingly tender beans enriched with something green near the end of cooking. That might be from leafy greens, chopped green vegetables or a green salsa or sauce. Think pintos and kale, garbanzos and pesto, red beans and okra, white beans and arugula. The green element adds rich flavor, textural variation and nutrients. Believe me, these recipes will take the sting out of autumn days.
All of these recipes can be made with canned beans (a 15-ounce can yields about 1½ cups beans) but at some point play around with cooking dried beans. Good quality dried beans have a richer flavor than canned and you can easily control the texture.
RED BEANS AND CHORIZO STEW
Makes: 6 servings
1 pound dried red beans, such as Domingo Rojo 2 smoked ham hocks (or 4 ounces chopped smoked bacon) 1¾ teaspoons salt 12 ounces uncooked Mexican chorizo or spicy Italian sausage, removed from casing 1 medium red onion, trimmed, chopped 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 cups diced fresh mushrooms 1 poblano or red bell or yellow bell pepper, cored, diced 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 bag (12 ounces) frozen cut okra Chopped fresh cilantro Red jasmine rice, optional
Rinse beans well and pick through them for stones. Put beans into a large (4 to 6 quart) Dutch oven or deep saucepan. Add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Heat to a boil, then remove from heat and let stand 1 hour.
Add water if needed so beans are covered by 2 inches. Add ham hocks. Heat to a boil, then reduce heat to very low. Partly cover the pan and let simmer, stirring often and adding water as needed to always keep beans covered by at least 1 inch. Cook until the beans are tender to the bite (you’ll need to taste them), usually 1½ to 2 hours. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt and simmer 10 more minutes. At this point you can refrigerate the beans for several days in their liquid. Remove the hocks and pull the meat off the bones and chop it finely and reserve.
Meanwhile, put chorizo and onion into a large, deep saucepan or deep skillet. Set over medium heat. Cook and stir to break up the chorizo until golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic; cook 1 minute. Stir in mushrooms, pepper and chili power.
Strain beans over a bowl to catch their liquid. Stir 3 cups of the drained beans, 1 cup of the bean cooking liquid, the chopped ham hock meat and the okra into the chorizo. (Save remaining beans for another use.) Simmer, partly covered, over medium heat about 10 minutes. Season to taste with the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt. Serve in wide bowls topped with rice and cilantro.
PER SERVING: 444 calories, 24 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 51 g carbohydrates, 5 g sugar, 35 g protein, 906 mg sodium, 16 g fiber
RED JASMINE RICE
Makes: 6 servings
2 cups white jasmine rice 2⅔ cups red bean cooking water 1 teaspoon salt 2 cloves garlic, crushed Chopped fresh herbs for garnish
Put rice, bean water, salt and garlic into a rice cooker. Cook according to manufacturer’s directions until rice is tender.
Let stand 10 minutes. Fluff with fork. Serve garnished with fresh herbs.
PER SERVING: 215 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 47 g carbohydrates, 0 g sugar, 4 g protein, 392 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
PINTO BEANS AND GREENS
Makes: 8 servings
1 pound dried pinto beans or yellow eye beans 2 to 4 tablespoons bacon fat or olive oil 2 large cloves garlic, crushed 1 large sprig fresh sage or thyme (or ¼ teaspoon dried) Salt 3 to 4 cups loosely packed, chopped or thinly sliced kale Red pepper hot sauce
Rinse beans well and pick through them for stones. Put beans into a large (4 to 6 quart) Dutch oven or deep saucepan. Add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Heat to a boil, then remove from heat and let stand 1 hour.
Add water if needed so beans are covered by 2 inches. Add bacon fat, garlic and herb sprig. Heat to a boil, then reduce heat to very low. Partly cover the pan and let simmer, stirring often and add water as needed to always keep beans covered by at least an inch. Cook until the beans are tender to the bite (you’ll need to taste them), usually 1½ to 2 hours. Add 1 teaspoon salt and simmer 10 more minutes. At this point you can refrigerate the beans for several days in their liquid.
Reheat beans if necessary. Use a potato masher to lightly crush a few of the beans; usually 3 or 4 mashes does it. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt. Stir in the kale and simmer until it is tender, about 10 minutes. Serve hot in bowls with plenty of hot sauce.
PER SERVING: 228 calories, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 3 mg cholesterol, 37 g carbohydrates, 1 g sugar, 13 g protein, 303 mg sodium, 13 g fiber
GARBANZOS WITH PESTO AND NOODLES
Makes: 6 servings
1 pound dried garbanzo beans 7 tablespoons olive oil 6 large cloves garlic, finely chopped Salt 2 ribs celery, diced 1 large (12 ounces) sweet onion, diced 2 to 3 tablespoons tomato paste ½ of a 12-ounce bag wide egg noodles ½ cup prepared pesto sauce Shaved or shredded Parmesan cheese Chopped fresh basil
Rinse beans well and pick through them for stones. Put garbanzos into a large Dutch oven or deep saucepan. Add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Heat to a boil, then remove from heat and let stand 1 hour.
Drain beans and add fresh water to cover by 2 inches. Add 4 tablespoons of the oil and half of the garlic. Heat to a boil, then reduce heat to very low. Partly cover the pan and let simmer, stirring often and adding water as needed to always keep beans covered by at least 1 inch. Cook until the beans are tender to the bite (you’ll need to taste them), usually about 2 hours. Add 1 teaspoon of salt and simmer 10 more minutes. At this point you can refrigerate the beans for several days in their liquid.
Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons oil in large, deep nonstick skillet. Add celery and onion; saute until tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and remaining garlic; cook 1 minute. Strain beans over a bowl to catch their liquid. Stir drained beans and 1 cup of their cooking liquid into the skillet. Simmer about 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt.
Meanwhile, heat a large pot of salted water to boil. Add egg noodles and cook until al dente tender, about 6 minutes. Drain.
Just before serving, stir noodles into warm bean mixture. Serve right away in wide bowls dolloped generously with pesto sauce. Garnish with cheese and basil.
PER SERVING: 617 calories, 30 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 35 mg cholesterol, 70 g carbohydrates, 13 g sugar, 20 g protein, 671 mg sodium, 14 g fiber