Techniques to pop collars of winter jackets
Suggestions include using millinery wire, small stitches
Dear Julia: Congratulations on your column. You make sewing both interesting and fun. It is a pleasure to read it. I have a few questions for you. I have two new fall jackets with collars or necklines that could conceivably be folded over flat against the chest near the shoulder. I guess I can use doublestick/dressmaker’s tape for that purpose, unless you have a better idea. Pins never seem to stay hidden or in place. My preferred way to wear the collars of the jackets, however, would be popped or turned up with a gentle curve away from the face.
Some years ago, I read a book where a dressmaker to the stars would sew pockets closed (do this!) and also weave a fine gauge wire into the neckline of a garment to be able to pop the collar up and have it stay up. This is the trick I’d like to learn!
Ever tried this? I would look for an extremely fine wire, probably floral. Any suggestions for gauge size and also type of wire? Secondly, what would be the best way to insert it and not create a noticeable hole? Go from back to front? I know the garment would probably dictate this. The jackets in question are fabric, not leather. I wonder if the washable jacket would remain so with a wire insert?
I hope you can answer these questions soon, as the weather is getting cooler and I want to wear these jackets without fear of getting facial makeup on them. Laurie, from Louisiana
Hi Laurie: You sound like a stylish woman! My first thought is to use buckram, which would be easier than using wire. But this would only work if you are constructing a new jacket or are willing to remove the collar from the existing jacket. You could line your collar with this stiff fabric. If you go this route, I would try the lightest weight buckram first. A heavier buckram might cause the collar to stand up straight and not curve away from your face like you’d like it to. A lightweight buckram might allow you to mold the collar into your chosen position.
As for the wire, I think the wire used by the dressmaker you mentioned is probably cotton- or rayon-wrapped millinery wire, pictured here. (You can find some online at rosemille.com.) This would be safe to use in your jackets and still keep them washable. I haven’t personally used this product when sewing collars, but I think it would be difficult to simply insert it into a ready-made jacket unless there happens to be an existing channel to thread the wire into. But I think that wouldn’t be likely.
If you’re up for the task, you could remove the collar from the jacket, incorporate the wire and then re-attach the collar. Most likely, you’ll need to support the collar in more places than just around the outer edge to get it to stand up properly. I would include a wire at the inner edge of the collar as well, and then add perpendicular supporting wires that attach to the inner and outer wires all along the collar. This should ensure that it will stay popped up. Or you could just take your jackets to a talented seamstress!
A seamstress that specializes in creating garments for cosplay — the practice of dressing up as a character from a movie, book or video game — would be your best bet, as they are adept at making elaborate costumes that often use complicated construction methods.
If you just want to make sure your collar stays down, instead of using pins, you could tack the collar down with just a couple of very small stitches. But this would be a more permanent solution than using double-stick tape or pins.