Wait until January to prune ash, other trees

Winter chill will assure state of dormancy, give best chance for recovery

Q: We have an ash tree in the back yard that was attacked by borers and have managed to fix that worry. There are several limbs and branches that are dead that we want to prune out. When is best to remove them? — N.P., Albuquerque

A: The best time to prune your ash and any other deciduous trees and shrubs on the property, with some exceptions, is during the month of January. I can hear you thinking “but all the leaves are off so how do I distinguish which parts need removal?” That’s easy. Now, before all the leaves have dropped for the season, get out there and tie a ribbon or string on the branches or limbs that you know you want to remove.

It’s best for the tree that it is in a state of dormancy when you prune. Around here that’s when it’s truly cold and that’s the month of January. The limbs/branches wearing a ribbon is your visual reminder of what you want to remove without taking down still viable parts of your ash.

Why wait? Simple, since the tree is asleep there is far less risk of sap flowing and the tree “bleeding to death.” The cuts will heal well before the tree starts to come out of dormancy and be healthier for it.

So get out there now to ribbon the parts you know you need to prune and allow the tree time to go to sleep before you tidy it up. Oh, I mentioned “exceptions”! Don’t prune any of your spring-blooming ornamental shrubs like lilac and forsythia during the winter or you’ll remove all of the impending bloom. Those creatures are pruned right after they’ve finished blooming for you, in late spring next year. Also leave the roses and grapes alone since they use the old growth as winter protection.

Q: I was given a bag of daffodil bulbs for my birthday. I live in an apartment that has a nice sunny balcony and was told that I can plant them in a pot and they’ll come up for me next year. What do I need to do? — B.G., Albuquerque

A: Growing pots of bulbs is really very simple and usually successful, especially if you remember to tend the pots during the winter months. It’s time to get those bulbs hunkered down now so they can “root out” and be ready to grow this spring.

First get the pot. I’d recommend a fairly deep one, at least 12 inches deep. It’s having enough soil in the pot to surround the bulbs that will keep them snuggly and safe during the cold. Too shallow a pot and the bulbs could suffer frost damage, so deeper is better.

Remember, the pot must drain. Kept soggy the bulbs will rot and that’s not good. Since the pot needs to drain it’s best to have the pot sit on a saucer so the balcony floor isn’t marred or damaged.

You’ll need potting soil and a small amount of pebbles or lava rocks, too. The pebbles are placed in the bottom of the pot to keep the soil from draining out of the pot. As for the soil it doesn’t have to be anything special but enough to completely fill the pot you’ve chosen, leaving no more than an inch of head room in the pot.

Pour enough soil in the pot to fill about two-third full. Then set your bulbs on it, remembering to put the fat squat end down. Twist them down a bit so they sit straight, too. Then gently pour the balance of the soil over the bulbs tamping it down to “cement” the bulbs in place and cover them completely. Aim to have the bulbs covered by at least a full two inches of soil.

Next, gently water the pot getting the soil completely dampened. Some water will probably drain into the saucer and it’s OK that it sits there for a bit. You might want to pick up the pot and pour the collected drainage back into the pot several times to be sure all of the soil gets thoroughly wet.

During the winter months you’ll want to water so the soil stays a little damp, but try to not let the pot sit in a puddle for extended periods of time. But, never allow the pot to dry too much. The soil must stay dampened to protect the bulbs. If you tend to the planting well this winter, in March you should be rewarded with blooms galore!

Happy Diggin’ In!