Hot springs
Guests soak up relaxation, history at state’s hot springs
Nothing cheats the bite of winter cold like soaking in a pool of hot mineral springs.
Lucky for New Mexicans and visitors alike, hot mineral-enriched water percolates from deep in the Earth into natural and commercial pools across the state.
“We have a dynamic tectonic environment in New Mexico,” says Laura J. Crossey, a University of New Mexico Professor of Earth and Planetary Sciences.
The Rio Grande Rift, an underground geological feature that expands the Earth’s crust and runs north to south, intersects other faults and active geologic features like the Jemez Lineament, that runs southwest to northeast across the state, creating hot rocks under the Earth surface, she says. Through fissures and cracks both surface and ground water stews through the rocks and bubbles through to the surface, propelled by heat and gases.
“In New Mexico and all over the world hot springs are very special places, often sacred, not just historically, but sacred today for many cultures,” says Crossey, whose research takes her all over the world. “Those cultures are vibrant and alive in New Mexico.”
Hot mineral springs date back through time millions of years and are often part of Native American origin beliefs and ceremonies.
“They are natural resources and need to be respected,” she says. “They aren’t everywhere, but in
special places. We go to the hot springs as people have throughout history.”
Healing claims
But are the waters healing? Many enthusiasts claim they are. The natural settings and the warm water are obviously relaxing.
And the mineral salts in many of the pools — magnesium, potassium, sulfide, chloride, calcium, phosphate and more — read like the label on an electrolyte sports drink.
Additionally, some of the minerals become gases, like carbon dioxide, when they hit the surface air, Crossey says.
So absorbing some of the minerals while soaking could have a beneficial effect, much like soaking a sprained joint in epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) reduces inflammation, she says.
And while it would be natural to suppose that Valles Caldera, an active volcanic system north of Jemez Springs, is the master heat generator for all the hot springs, it’s not that simple, she says.
The magma under Valles Caldera, which last erupted 40,000 years ago, warms nearby springs, she says. For more insight, she recommends watching the documentary, “Valles Caldera: The Science,” 2012, Santa Fe Productions.
The Jemez Mountains have several naturally occurring hot springs on public land.
Bathers are wise to take notice of warnings at unimproved or undeveloped hot springs that biological agents present in some springs, in the Jemez and elsewhere in the state, could be harmful if swallowed, inhaled or otherwise ingested.
Developed spas
Along with San Antonio, other popular spots are Spence and McCauley hot springs, both north of Jemez off NM 4. McCauley is a hike from either Jemez Falls or Battleship Rock campgrounds. Spence is about five miles north of the Jemez Ranger Station. Visit the Santa Fe National Forest website at usda.gov for directions and maps.
In the village, mineral-rich water is piped into the Jemez Springs Bath House, 10 a.m.5 p.m. daily, and into Jemez Hot Springs: Home of the Giggling Springs.
Tanya Struble, one of the owners of Giggling Springs, says guests like the developed pools because they are clean and the heat and the number of guests are controlled.
Wells tap into water that originates in the Valles Caldera, Struble says. It heats four pools to varying temperatures, depending on the season. She says they clean the water with ultraviolet light in a six-step process.
“We only do hot springs. We don’t do massage or other spa treatments and we think we do water well. Our water is that good,” she says.
The bathhouse property dates to about 1850, she says. And many villagers tell stories of vets returning from World War II who “took the waters” to heal their war wounds. The bathhouse was closed in 1950, but Sturble and her partner reopened Giggling Springs in 1993.
She adds that guests are limited to 25 people to respect privacy and enhance relaxation. Winter hours are 11 a.m.-5 p.m. everyday, except Tuesdays, until Feb. 5 and open until 6 p.m. Feb. 5-March 9. Rates are $25 for the first hour and up to $75 for a day pass, gigglingsprings.com.
Named for it
Truth or Consequences, about 150 miles south of Albuquerque on I-25, is home to about 11 developed geothermal mineral springs. Artifacts show that people have used the hot springs for centuries, especially the Apache and Mimbres. The town of Truth or Consequences changed its name from Hot Springs in 1950.
Jake Foerstner, owner of Riverbend Hot Springs, says he makes no claims about the water, but his returning guests often do. The chain of hidden pools, fed by hot mineral springs, are nestled in the bends of the Rio Grande.
“I know it certainly relaxes you,” he says.
But his guests say with soaking in the water they find relief from insomnia, arthritis and skin conditions. They say it relieves digestive distress.
The property also has lodging and a nightly laser light show projected onto the east bank of the Rio Grande and Turtleback Mountain across the river.
“We’re trying to add an element of magic to the soaking experience,” he says.
Riverbend is open 8 a.m.10 p.m. daily for guests 12 years old and older. An hourly property pass is $12 and private pools are available, riverbendhotsprings.com.
Off the beaten path
Farther south and west near Silver City, Mary Shirk of Faywood Hot Springs Resort, says the dark night sky, along with the hot mineral water, offers guests a unique opportunity to unplug and unwind.
“It’s very quiet, very dark and very secluded,” she says. “You can see the stars better from here. If you are still long enough you may see a shooting star. We call ourselves an oasis in the desert.”
Rates are $13 an hour and camping sites and cabins are available. Visit faywood.com.
Many hot springs bubble up in the nearby Gila Wilderness.
Two of the most popular are Jordan Hot Springs and Lightfeather Hot Springs in Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, about 75 minutes or 45 mountainous miles from Silver City. Visit the website at nps.gov/gicl/learn/nature/ hotsprings.htm.
Lightfeather is about a 20-minute walk and two river crossings away from the Visitors Center. Jordan Hot Springs is six miles from the Visitors Center via Little Bear Canyon trail.
Popular spas
North Central New Mexico has many popular public hot springs.
There are the hotter-thanhot Montezuma Hot Springs, in front of The United World College-USA, which owns and maintains the springs, free to visitors, about five miles northwest of Las Vegas, N.M. Bathing suits are required.
But perhaps the most popular hot mineral springs destination is Ojo Caliente, about an hour north of Santa Fe.
Marketing manager Bri Wright says people have been taking the water for thousands of years, according to artifacts found on the site. Ojo Caliente recently celebrated 150 years of operation, making it one of the oldest resorts in the country.
The resort features a complete offering of spa services and has several pools, sourced from geothermal aquifers. Each of four pools has distinct mineral compositions, thought to offer varying healing properties. For example, lithia water is believed to relieve depression. Iron is considered beneficial for the blood and immune system. Soda is believed to help digestion and the arsenic pool is thought to help with arthritis and skin conditions, she says. Daily rates are $24-$38. Visit ojocaliente.ojospa.com.
The resort has 1,100 acres and backs onto a national forest, but it’s the water that brings guests back again and again, she says. “Our waters are the main reason. Our guests truly unwind and relax.”