Albuquerque Journal

Classic pencil skirt, top are good beginner projects

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Dear Julia: I recently graduated from college and landed my first profession­al job. Most people in the office are wearing what I would call “business casual.” I also just started making my own clothes. Can you suggest a pattern for me? I’ve been to my local sewing shop, but I am hoping you can find me something other than the big-name pattern companies. I also need it to be a beginner pattern. Thanks for your help. Abby S.

Dear Abby: Congratula­tions on graduating from college and getting a job! If you’re not familiar with Colette Patterns (www. colettepat­terns.com), you should check it out. It’s an independen­t sewing pattern company that specialize­s in “patterns that teach.” The patterns include clear, precise instructio­ns and diagrams, with links to in-depth tutorials for more help.

I’m recommendi­ng the Christina pencil skirt and the Adria top, both pictured on the model here. The pencil skirt is a classic that you can mix and match with different tops, and the Adria top has a more relaxed fit to balance out the fitted skirt.

Dear Julia: I know a pattern usually instructs us on what type of hem to use. But if I’m attempting to make something without a pattern, or attempting to alter a pattern, how do I know what type of hem to use? Donna H.

Dear Donna: The garment itself and the fabric often dictate what type of hem to use. For example, a flowy dress with a lightweigh­t fabric would require a narrow hem like a rolled hem. The rolled hem is great for shear fabrics and allows the fabric to move and flow.

If you are constructi­ng a more structured, tailored dress, a wider hem is more appropriat­e. The thicker hem adds more weight to the bottom of the dress and allows it to hang properly. A blind stitch is recommende­d for wider hems and gives it a more profession­al finish. Or a simple turned hem will work. If you don’t already have specialty foots for these different hems, it’s worth the investment. It will make the job of hemming a lot easier.

Readers, do you have any other favorite hemming techniques you can share with Donna?

 ?? COURTESY OF COLETTE MEDIA ??
COURTESY OF COLETTE MEDIA
 ?? Julia Cameron ?? SEW SIMPLE
Julia Cameron SEW SIMPLE

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