Re-pot plants that ‘desperately’ need it — inside
It’s too cold to do the chore outside, and save the rest for later in the season
Q: I’m curious if it’s time to re-pot my houseplants. Some need it desperately. And I have several that I want to do “just because.” Would re-potting now hurt at all or should I wait a bit longer? — L.H., Albuquerque
A: To me it does seem a wee bit early to tackle the annual re-potting chore. But it sounds like you have lots of plants to contend with! For the plants that “need it desperately” you could go ahead and start. I wouldn’t do the work outdoors though. It’s far too chilly to take an indoor plant out and do the work. So, have a workable space indoors to keep the plants healthier.
To start the re-pot process, I’d first recommend that the plant be a tad on the dry side so the “old” soil falls away with more ease but at the same time you don’t want to ravage the root mass by aiming to remove every bit of the old. Keeping some soil surrounding the root mass will be best.
While you have the pot empty, I would suggest a bath for the pot. Wash it completely with warm soapy water to get it good and clean. Starting fresh is your goal.
Having purchased your favorite potting soil I’d make sure that it had been indoors to warm up a bit before you repot. If the soil is chilly the plant could stress a bit and that’s not a good thing. Allow the soil ample time to — at least — not be cold. Tamp the soil down as you fill the pot. That way the plant doesn’t wobble and will feel more secure in its fresh soil. And remember to keep the plant at the same depth it was originally. Set a smidgen deeper won’t hurt but don’t go changing the elevation drastically.
After the re-pot is complete, you’ll want to off water slowly to really “cement” the plant in place. I take my re-pots to the sink and with the stopper in place allow water to gently and slowly get all the soil dampened. I keep the pots in the sink for a while and often scoop up some of the collected water and pour it again into the pot. That way you’re guaranteed all the soil gets wet and the roots are protected.
With the soaking/settling process completed, drip the pot off over the sink and place it back where it was. Monitor the plant for any signs of stress for a couple of weeks, especially since a lot of its surroundings changed. It might require more water or less so just check in on them frequently.
Since you sound like an accomplished houseplant tender and this isn’t your first rodeo, and if you have a comfortable space indoors to do this chore, go ahead and begin now. You’ll be ahead of the curve as your seasons progress.
Q: I’ve a question about your recommending sealing a cut on a tree. I took a Master Gardener’s class a few years ago, the tree men said not to use any sealer on cuts. They believe the tree’s sap will seal the wound. Is there any new info concerning this? — C.P., Cedar Crest
A: Gosh, I know that a lot of trees do “self-seal” but the way I see it is — as long as the broken branch removal is done to create the cleanest-flattest edge humanly possible, and the “fresh” cut isn’t weeping, yes, I’d seal it with the simple smearing of Elmer’s old-fashioned glue.
To allow the exposed wood to become an avenue for insects to infect the tree, again to me, seems so counterproductive. If you don’t wish to seal, at least consider spraying the area periodically with a broad-spectrum pesticide so the wounded wood doesn’t become an avenue for pests. A Catalpa tree I have needed doctoring and I had no hesitations in smearing the cut to keep this charming tree safer.
But perhaps a call to your Master Gardener or even your County Ag. Agent would settle this conundrum for you as you decide how to tend your tree.
Happy New Year Diggin’ In!
Tracey Fitzgibbon is a certified nurseryman. Send garden-related questions to Digging In, Albuquerque Journal, P.O. Drawer J, Albuquerque, NM 87103, or to features@abqjournal.com.