NM roots run deep at Atrisco Cafe and Bar
We’ve entered that month named after the twofaced Roman god Janus, and having looked back reflectively in our last column, it is now time we face forward and full speed ahead for 2019 with the firm resolve to be as fair, honest and open as we can be. Any comments, criticisms or complaints, call our editor.
In that spirit, we begin 2019 with the observation that some of the best restaurants we’ve ever enjoyed have been in that most pedestrian of pedestrian American spaces, the shopping mall.
One particularly memorable Japanese place was in the ugliest shopping mall near O’Hare airport outside Chicago. We’ll never forget the name — Yasuki. A Japanese businessman hipped us to it. Unbelievable. I think they got the fish right off a plane a few miles away. We digress … .
Atrisco Cafe and Bar in the DeVargas Mall, along with several establishments from the Sanbusco diaspora, such as Teca Tu pet shop, Santa Fe Pens and Op. Cit. Books, kinda reminds me of that. And apparently Atrisco is no secret. A couple of visits, with friends and then solo during the holiday season, also put me in mind of the great metaphysical observation by my guru Yogi Berra, who once said of a particularly popular spot in New York, “Nobody goes there anymore. It got too crowded.”
The Wednesday 12:30 lunch with friends found a wait, but only 10 minutes; and our subsequent visit found every barstool filled before noon with a chummy local crowd, men and women, single and solo, enjoying everything from a pint to margaritas ($6.75/house) to a Brandy Alexander (but no iced teas) from the friendly, efficient mixologist.
By noon, there was a wait at the door, but not long as ‘bustling’ is the word that comes to mind and things are moving right along. Atrisco is a sister establishment of the local institution Tomasita’s on Guadalupe next to the train station (and Tomasita’s in Albuquerque) and cousin to Tia Sophia’s, all part of the Gundrey family whose grandmother Tia started business in Albuquerque in the ’40s with Central Cafe at the corner of Atrisco Boulevard and Central Avenue So, talk about roots, talk about family. And talk about excellent northern New Mexico fare at great value.
A Roast Leg of Lamb Burrito ($12.95) is thinly sliced Colorado lamb, and a combo of green chile with a bite to it and musky red chile (there’s something about ordering “Christmas” at Christmas time), and it is a perfect hit of the Mediterranean-meets-New Mexico. Excellent call and definitely up for a re-order next time.
The Chimayo Plate ($11.95) with house-made pork tamale, not too mealy, a chicken enchilada with green chile, rice and beans was spot on and, having lived there years ago, a credit to the village.
The true test of any and every northern New Mexico restaurant is their Green Chile Stew. Atrisco’s passes the test with flying colors, of course ($7.50/bowl; all their red and green chile is grown in the lower Rio Grande Valley near Hatch and Salem, N.M.). OK, perhaps a little heavy on the potatoes, but we love potatoes and the little dollop of green chile on the top is a nice touch.
Consistency, great value, friendly, surrounded by shopping and free parking (!), full bar — head over to Atrisco Cafe and Bar.