Tips for planting, caring for your tomato plants Q
. Now that we got a free tomato plant, we’re hoping that you’ll give us guidance on planting it and lots of recommendations on how to care for it. — S.F., Albuquerque
A. First, you’re going to need to figure out what type of tomato you were given. If it’s a plant that’s going to offer big tomatoes, then I’d suggest you plant either in the ground or in a very large container. I have for years grown plants that offer small fruit — like pear, Roma or cherry tomatoes — in containers on my patio.
Plants that grow larger fruit like Big-Boy or Beef Master will always preform better given ample space.
Next, consider placement. Tomatoes will do best if grown in a spot that will offer some respite from the wickedly hot midday sun. Having them grow in a place that offers lots of early morning sun and after 3:00 p.m. sun is perfect. They also like good air circulation. Tucking them up against a concrete or stuccoed wall is not a good idea.
If you choose to grow in a container, you’ll want to fill it with potting soil, not garden soil. The rule of thumb is potting soil for containers, garden soil for the garden. Why? Garden soil usually contains far higher levels of fertile ingredients — such as manure, bark and sawdust— that put in a container would be considered “too hot,” or too high a level of nitrogen. Oh, and if you’re going to plant in containers, they must drain.
Now the planting. Look at your plants. See where the first true leaves grow out of the stem? You are going to plant your tomato so those leaves are about an inch, maybe two, above the topsoil line. You’re going to bury the stem quite deep in the soil. The plant will eventually root all along that buried stem, making a stronger, sturdier plant.
Next, consider strongly having a tomato cage that will surround the plant. Keeping your tomato growing in an upright habit will keep it healthier. A trailing, cascading tomato plant will be harder to watch for pests and harvest the fruit. Fertilization shouldn’t be a real concern, especially since you’ve added new amendments to the garden soil or are planting in fresh potting soil.
I would suggest an application of root stimulator — diluted to manufacturer’s recipe — to offset any planting shock. If you feel the need to feed, wait about a month.
How often you water will depend on several factors. In the ground, plants will do best if offered deep ground soakings perhaps three times a week. Be aware that if the plants look wilted and puny during the heat of the day, that’s OK. It if they don’t perk back up once the heat of the day goes by, the plant has a problem. Water deeper and longer and see if they do better. I will also caution about overhead sprinkling. Keeping the offered water at ground level is a far better way to care for the plants.
Another thought: My tomatoes were stricken horribly with tomato hornworms last year. I was offered a preventative solution by a reader. Mr. G. suggests planting the herb parsley as far away as possible from the tomatoes. Seems the moth that lays the eggs that hatch into hornworms really likes parsley. I’d rather sacrifice a planting of parsley to prevent a hornworm infestation on my tomatoes.
If you’ve never seen this moth, they are remarkable — as big as a hummingbird, with dusky cream-brown wings. If you’re out in the early evening and you notice a bumbling, clumsy hummingbird-sized creature flitting around your garden plants, rest assured it’s a sphinx moth. At that point, keep a vigilant eye out. If you see damage, inspect the plants very closely until you find a green caterpillar. Pluck it off and dispose of it. Usually, the plant can grow anew and eventually produce fruit for you.
Growing a happy, healthy tomato isn’t hard, but you do need to be consistent with its care. Have fun and learn lots while you’re out there Diggin’ In!
Tracey Fitzgibbon is a certified nurseryman. Send garden-related questions to Digging In, Albuquerque Journal, 7777 Jefferson NE, Albuquerque, NM 87109, or to features@abqjournal.com.