Albuquerque Journal

Cacho’s Bistro at Sawmill Market serves South American specialtie­s

Cacho’s Bistro at Sawmill Market excels at South American specialtie­s

- BY RICHARD S. DARGAN

Sawmill Market’s short life has been like a rollercoas­ter ride over an active volcano.

The food emporium near Old Town opened to much fanfare in March, just before the governor restricted restaurant­s to takeout and patio dining. It sputtered along for a while on takeout only before closing completely. Now, it’s back from oblivion, just in time for the dog days of summer.

Despite the on-again, off-again rollout, people are finding their way to the restored lumberyard across from Hotel Chaco, if a recent Saturday evening is any indication. The gravel lot on the south side of the building was almost full, and there were about 50 people sitting at tables on the large patio behind the market. Everyone was wearing a mask, and an attendant monitored the entrance, ready to close the doors as soon as the 50% capacity on the patio was reached.

It’s easy to see the attraction. The market is impressive in both the variety of its vendors and design of its space. Lots of pale wood, natural light and plants take the dystopian edge off the industrial-style interior. There’s something of interest around every corner, from the domelike oven decorated with fiery red tiles inside Hawt Pizza to the bar at Paxton’s Taproom made out of leftover wood from the old lumberyard. Outlets of establishe­d operations such as Eldora Chocolate share the space with new ventures.

Notable among the latter is Cacho’s Bistro, the selfdescri­bed “best Venezuelan bistro in Albuquerqu­e.” Also, to my knowledge, the only Venezuelan bistro in Albuquerqu­e.

Ronsuelvic Cavalieri, Cacho’s Bistro owner and guiding hand, got her start at the Rail Yards before locking down a spot at Sawmill.

Cacho’s Bistro showcases the Venezuelan penchant for cooking meats, cheeses and other fillings inside bread and pastry. There are familiar

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 ?? RICHARD S. DARGAN/FOR THE JOURNAL ?? A selection of Cacho’s Bistro’s Venezuelan baked goods, clockwise from bottom left: cachito with guava and cream cheese, tequeño and cachito with ham and cheddar cheese.
RICHARD S. DARGAN/FOR THE JOURNAL A selection of Cacho’s Bistro’s Venezuelan baked goods, clockwise from bottom left: cachito with guava and cream cheese, tequeño and cachito with ham and cheddar cheese.
 ??  ?? Arepas at Cacho’s Bistro come with a choice of fillings like diced zucchini, left, and shredded chicken.
Arepas at Cacho’s Bistro come with a choice of fillings like diced zucchini, left, and shredded chicken.

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