On the side
TIO DAVID’S PERUVIAN FLAVOR
★★★1/2
3409 Central NE, 433-4438, tiodavids.com
The arrival of Tio David’s Peruvian Flavor is particularly timely, as it coincides with the departure of another Peruvian restaurant, Pollito con Papas II.
Appetizers feature a couple preparations of pangasius, a large freshwater catfish native to Southeast Asia that is farmed extensively. It has a mild flavor and firm, flaky white flesh that stands up well to frying. At Tio David’s, you can get it chopped and cooked in key lime juice as part of the ceviche ($10.99) or in fried strips ($5.99) served with a side of huancaína, a traditional Peruvian ají chile cheese sauce.
Fillings for the sandwiches include roasted pork shoulder slices ($10.99), Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken ($8.99) and grilled vegetables ($7.99).
The pan con pescado ($10.99) consists of battered and fried strips of pangasius fish in aji chile mayonnaise and a criolla salad made with pickled onions and ají peppers.
Sides include four different types of fries. The papas de los Incas ($4.99), wedges of purple potatoes served with huancaína sauce, are moister and a little less starchy than yellow potatoes.