Albuquerque Journal

On the side

- Richard S. Dargan/For the Journal

NOODLE WORKS ★★★

5901 Wyoming NE, 990-0055, noodlework­snm.com

At Noodle Works, there are a handful of traditiona­l Chinese-American dishes, but the hand-pulled noodles are the real attraction.

Proteins such as chicken, pork and beef are served over rice or in bowls of broth with broad, flat Westland noodles or spaghetti-like facet noodles.

Appetizers include a few unusual items, such as cold chili chicken ($7.98) and bean jelly salad ($5.98). The base for the latter is made with mung bean gelatin that’s cooked in blocks and sliced into translucen­t strips that soak up the soybased sauce. Noodle Works version of orange chicken is made with pieces of chicken breaded and fried and served in a sweet and savory sauce.

It’s a welcome respite from the usual spring rolls and cream cheese wontons.

An order of xiao long bao ($10.98), also known as soup dumplings, gets you eight twisted, pleated pieces served with a cup of vinegary sauce.

The noodle with minced beef dish ($11.98) showcases the preparatio­n of Noodle Works’ namesake product. A

tangle of lo mein noodles about the size of a grapefruit are served with shredded carrots and cucumbers under a spread of well-seasoned, finely minced beef. It’s a good, simple dish elevated by the quality of the springy, chewy noodles.

Dessert consists of a very filling assortment of sweet buns, or bao. An order of milk buns ($5.98) consists of four chewy buns with a custardy, burned orange-colored filling.

The menu has several vegetarian options. Gluten-free diners are, however, out of luck.

 ?? RICHARD S. DARGAN/FOR THE JOURNAL ?? An order of xiao long bao, Chinese soup dumplings.
RICHARD S. DARGAN/FOR THE JOURNAL An order of xiao long bao, Chinese soup dumplings.

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