Stroganoff gets a new spin with chicken

Some might say beef stroganoff’s time has come … and gone. But like the saying goes, “everything old is new again,” which seems to be the case for this iconic Russian-French dish.

The origin of this dish can be traced to the 18th century, when the Europe-hopping, aristocratic Stroganoffs decided to bring their Francophile culinary tastes back to Russia in the form of a French chef.

Count Stroganoff, as legend has it, wanted to eat beef, but needed it to be soft due to his bad teeth. The chef decided to use thin strips tenderized in a mixture of mustard and sour cream, and Beef Stroganoff was born.

The recipe has changed significantly over the years, and today, while sour cream is still a key component, most don’t include mustard. And many, like this week’s Chicken and Mushroom Stroganoff, don’t even include beef.

As it happens, almost anything bathed in a rich, sour cream sauce is delicious, and bits of browned chicken and thinly sliced mushrooms are no exception.

The chicken, in this case boneless chicken thighs, is a much more forgiving protein, and certainly more economical, than the often-used beef tenderloin.

While beef must be sauteed quickly to avoid overcooking (no one wants to turn a pricey tenderloin into a plate of rubber bands), chicken can simmer in the creamy sauce and maintain its tenderness.

Mushrooms, sliced thin and browned to their optimum umami goodness, bring an earthy flavor to the dish that cuts into the richness, along with a splash of dry sherry, which adds a lovely bright note to the sauce.

Done in less than 30 minutes, this dish is perfect for a luxurious weeknight dinner or a sophisticated weekend dinner party.

CHICKEN AND MUSHROOM STROGANOFF

Serves 4 Lighter than the traditional beef stroganoff, this chicken and mushroom version is still luxuriously rich and creamy. Note: You can substitute ¼ cup of dry white wine or a teaspoon of lemon juice for the sherry in this recipe.

12 ounces uncooked extra-wide egg noodles

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

8 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced thin

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon Hungarian sweet paprika

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon dried thyme

1¼ cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons dry sherry (see note)

1 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce ½ cup sour cream

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

Cook noodles according to package directions, then drain. Toss hot noodles with 1 tablespoon butter.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are browned, about 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

To the same skillet, over medium heat, add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Add onion and cook until softened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the chicken, garlic, flour, paprika, salt, pepper and thyme. Cook, stirring, until the chicken is lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the browned mushrooms, chicken broth, sherry (see note) and Worcestershire sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and gently simmer until chicken is cooked through and the sauce is thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the sour cream. Taste and reseason with salt and pepper, if necessary. To serve, divide the noodles among plates. Top with the chicken mixture and a sprinkling of parsley.